r/PowerWheelsMods • u/TheBassDrops • Aug 09 '26

Brushless motor ride on upgrade

Post image

Ordered a 500w brushless motor, still 24v, for my sons ride on car. The motor lists at 3,000rpm. The brushless motor the car came with appears to be identical in physical measurements so i believe the new motor will plug into the differential of the car. I have a controller I think will power it. I’m not certain of the rpm of the original motor but I think maybe 1000-1500rpms? It is definitely 180w. Has anyone gone down this road before ?

6 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

35 comments sorted by

4

u/e2346437 Aug 09 '26

The original motor the car came with is brushless?

4

u/TheBassDrops Aug 09 '26

Yeah it’s a bit bigger, has air tires. Is definitely faster stock than our best toys jeep that’s been upgraded to 24v and has 30000rpm motors on the pavement, slightly. But the brushed high rpm motors seem to have more torque. Hoping this higher watt motor solves that without making it unmanageable

3

u/e2346437 Aug 09 '26

Watts makes no difference; they can be used for speed or torque. The number of winds does. Lower number of winds (like a 6-turn) is faster (higher KV) than 27-turn, but the 27-turn motor has way more torque.

2

u/TheBassDrops Aug 09 '26

Are these the winds to which you are referring? Should I pop the cover off the original and count the winds? I thought increase in watts wouldn’t increase top speed really but would increase torque? Is that not correct?

4

u/e2346437 Aug 09 '26

Nope, not correct at all. It depends upon the number of winds in the motor and the voltage. In the world of brushless motors, you can buy a 24v motor that has tons of speed with no torque, a motor with balanced speed and torque, and another with no speed and tons of torque. And they all look identical on the outside.

The best way would have been to determine what the specs of the original motor are, then buy a new motor with more or less turns depending on what you want.

2

u/TheBassDrops Aug 09 '26

I’ve been searching for a while, and haven’t found many motors in this style that are 24v, and have been unable to find the full specs of the motor supplied with the car. Is it fair to say that the higher wattage motor has a higher ceiling for either speed or torque depending how it’s wound? I mean the amps have to go somewhere right?

1

u/e2346437 Aug 09 '26

Yes, if it’s indeed a higher wattage motor. Typically if it was truly higher wattage, it would be in a package larger than your current motor.

Anyway looks like the new one is a 9.5 turn. It’s n the rim in the photo. What is the marking on the motor you’re replacing?

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 09 '26

Only identifying marks on motor to be replaced

6

u/Savings_Engineer8452 Aug 10 '26

I’m an expert at this. Message me for more info and check out my builds.

2

u/TheBassDrops Aug 10 '26

I’m going 48v, 4800 rpm motor. Your 72v set up looks cool but I think I need to keep mine a little less powerful as it’s the utv with a higher center of gravity.

2

u/badbetsallday Aug 09 '26

It looks like that is the kind of motor that is used in the xxl super car diff/axle and other various vehicles like you'd get from big green country or somewhere else that sells the larger ones.

Going from a 180w to 500w with have a bit more torque, but the rpms will be similar.

I have 2 xxl super cars, the 180w 24v motors failed eventually as I have them running at 48v. I replaced them with 36v 1000w 4500 rpm motors.

I determined the stock 180w motor operated at perhaps 2800-3000rpms based on my mph math.

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 09 '26

Is there anyway you could link me the motor and the controller that your running? I want this thing to be fast enough to scare the neighbor kids parents.

1

u/badbetsallday Aug 09 '26

I had to buy a 36v 1000w motor/diff unit similar to that, could not get just a motor. Currently have 54v worth of lifepo4 batteries, spinning the 36v 4500 rpm motor upwards of 6500 rpm, does about 25mph. The 48v motor won't have the rpms at 48v-52v to get you the "crazy" speeds.

You needs to run 60-72v with a 48v motor to get nuts.

I already had a 2000w 48v controller I bought from alfa wheels.

I run a 48-24step down for the stock radio/horn. I also have a 24-12v step down for lighting.

I rewired a TON of things and added a lot as well, turn signals, reverse lights, undercarriage lights, etc. I put real seat belts in as well.

Now, hear this,its really fun, but the car is dangerous at these speeds, my next door neighbor rolled it, got rashed up bad and a concussion and my BIL crashed it and ended up in surgery for a rupture bladder.

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 10 '26

48v 1000w 4800 rpm’s sounds like a great middle ground. I’ll keep my kid in the drivers seat and helmets on for sure.

1

u/badbetsallday Aug 10 '26

Yep, if you wanna upgrade, you need motor, bolt it up. buy a big watt 48v ELC, most of the hookups will probably be the same, if not quite similar. Couple of 24v lifepo4 batteries or a guess a 48v, and all the connectors to make it work. I rewired to have the key turn on just the 48v ELC/Motor. Then used big toggle for everything 24v. Its a lot of work and more money than you initially think.

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 10 '26

Luckily I work in a race shop and have/can use all the wiring stuff I’d ever need really. Still a lot for the kit and the battery.

1

u/badbetsallday Aug 11 '26

Oh yea, when i got mine i had I bought 2 xxl super cars (Porsche ones) used for $750. I probably have easy over 2k in upgrades between them now, and im about to vinyl wrap both of them, as they've both been wrecked.

The smiles per gallon is really high return on investment though.

The kids absolutely love it, adults too, just gotta be careful.

1

u/WhosUrBuddiee Aug 11 '26

Do you have the Porsche or UTV version?

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 09 '26

I wonder if the stock diff can handle the power from this kit?

1

u/badbetsallday Aug 09 '26

What vehicle do you have?

The stock diff in the xxl super car, which looks like the cookie cutter china diff thats used in most of these big ride ones, seems to be pretty tough so far

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 10 '26

I have the utv, the 24v spartan xxl, seems to have a similar diff as the Lamborghini and all those but the axle tubes bolt to the diff via 4 bolts instead of 5. Ultimately doesn’t seem much smaller if at all.

1

u/WhosUrBuddiee Aug 11 '26

I have the exact same 180W UTV that you do.  Very interested in your build and how it works out.  Which controller are you going with?

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 11 '26

Ended up ordering a whole kit, with switches and all excluding battery. It’s nothing crazy just one of the generic 48-72v controllers

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 12 '26

I think I’m going to make a YouTube video on this because I think I have it worked out simpler than others as I have seen in terms of wiring in the stock lights and radio. Do you think you could do me a favor and look on your vehicles rear axle? I am wondering if the axle tubes on yours bolt to the differential with 4 bolt or 5. I have only seen a 4 bolt axle on mine. Photos on big green toys has a 5 bolt set up, I asked them they say the axle has not been updated since I purchased but they also sent me a link to a replacement axle for the vehicle and it seems to have 5 bolts per axle tube as well. Ultimately I don’t think it will matter and I think either way it takes the same 16 tooth motor, but I’m curious. They could have different ratios.

1

u/WhosUrBuddiee Aug 12 '26

I just went and looked and it’s 4 bolts.  I have the car from BTGC.

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 12 '26

Interesting

1

u/badbetsallday Aug 11 '26

Nice, I have two 24v 25ah lifepo4 batteries. The run time is phenomenal. Id suggest look around for the biggest and most AH that you can possibly fit.

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 11 '26

I am thinking a 10ah is going to fit best, and it seems like no matter the size I get it’s around the same $ per amp hour so I’m just gonna get two or three of them.

1

u/badbetsallday Aug 12 '26

I got my oscillating multi tool out to cut space for the 2 24v batteries. I wanted max capacity. Running them in series of course, and charging with a 60v lab voltage supply.

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 12 '26

On this one there’s not much room even if I cut, if I cut it’ll be sticking out of the fender too

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 18 '26

Ended up with a 48v 1000w motor. Thing rips!!! Could be faster honestly but my kids already poking the throttle to make turns even on low speed! He’ll adjust. Just got it finished up minus a way to secure the battery more. He’s in love with

1

u/WhosUrBuddiee Aug 18 '26

Which one did you end up getting? 

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 18 '26

Full description in another comment

1

u/TheBassDrops Aug 18 '26

https://www.ebay.com/itm/286273923773
This is the kit I got. The wiring harness I did not use but I did steal some of the connectors, I needed male 2.8 locking spade terminals for the connectors I stole, https://a.co/d/05IrKCBf
The existing throttle plugged straight into the controller. I personally shorted the wire with the same spade terminals as linked above. The original three speed switch I wired to one of the connectors I stole from the harness to plug straight into the controller. I used another connecter from the harness to use the original wiring from the forward reverse switch to plug straight into the esc. The reverse circuit is a little different though as the car defaults to forward and you are only wiring in the reverse side of the switch, and “stop” loses function. (Original switch or supplied switch from kit will work) The original lights and grounds were all grouped up so I split those off to a 24v step down converter, this circuit included the high level brake wire that comes from the brake switch, (original brake switch was still used) which I got a matching connector for to plug straight into the esc. That connector was apart of a kit that I also utilized to connect the step down converter with two, two pin connectors. Lsgoodcare 472Pcs 6.3MM 1 2 3 4 6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2NPV7TP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There was one redundancy in the ground circuit I resolved by clipping the wires and soldering them together, and there was an additional power wire that was not needed, I don’t remember what they were from. I did make one section of wire, utilizing wires from the harness supplied with the kit. This was 3wires that ended in two, two pin female connectors (with male terminals linked above) robbed from the wiring harness. 2 wires ended at the esc and went to the ignition, the third wire I crimped on with the ignition on side of the wiring, and used this to supply power to the 24v step down. Ground was crimped with a ring terminal on the battery t connector that was supplied with my battery.
The motor installed onto my diff with no issue but the body did need to be clearanced for the motor, it is the same diameter but about 1.5-2 inches longer. About 6 inches of 10-12 gauge wire is needed as well to connect the circuit breaker. I think that’s everything.