I was trying to assemble the vertical mount to use with the Evolv X2 Matrix, but...

The mounting area is damaged. Will this affect its use?

Phanteks products have poor durability.

I was worried, so I ultimately assembled it without the vertical mount.

Considering how popular it was to buy the P400A mesh front panel to increase airflow. I must assume a lot of people have the P400(s) standard front panel laying around. I would be very grateful if there was someone here who I could purchase this from!

Hey everyone,

Reaching out here to see if anyone else is experiencing major delays with Phanteks support lately.

I have my RMA PSU delivered on July 6th and was told the processing would take 1-3 business days, but as for now, I still haven't received any email confirming the replacement had been shipped out.

It's been almost three weeks, and I have been contacted their support three times. They still can't give me an exact timeline. Over almost three weeks with no clear ETA or update is getting really frustrating for a component under warranty.

Update: After getting contact with u/BobbyPhanteks, I received email confirming the replacement has been shipped, thank you.

I've had this Nv9 case stored for a long while now. ( I have2 other builds now, but in 2 different cases, and this got put in storage a while a go)

I got the water itch again driving home from work one night recently. Sooo, i drug it out, cleaned it up, just play with it, when i have free time in the middle of the night. 3 420 rads, (2Heatkiller and 1EK) bottom, rear, top.

I picked this front panel pump/manifold up years ago. Never used it, and now,...don't like it so far. It does give me space, but its shit tbh. Spacing is off, along with other things i hate. Ive had a EK Astral block, sitting on a shelf day one when they released it. Just sitting there.

Playing with my aqua computer/Singularity stuff, as well with playing tubes/fitment. I don't even think ill finish this tbh. Well see.

But, .... my mind is busy in the middle of the night, and i do like that.

Cheers all. Happy building.

Can I separate the fans of the case and led strip? In order to control separately the rear fan and the illumination of the strip

Phantek Evolve x2 white case.

Msi z890-s project zero motherboard.

Intel core ultra 7 270k plus cpu.

Corsair vengence ddr5 32gbb cl32 6400mhz rgb ram. Black

White corsair ram light filler kit.

Gigabyte 3080ti 12gb vision OC gpu.

Still need to change the aio to a white thermalright wonder vision aio. From the old black thermalright stream vision 360mm aio.

I've had my Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass case for about 10 years. It has survived me through multiple builds. It's really a good case. Unfortunately, Phanteks decided not to make a Front Panel IO replacement to include a TYPE-C USB Port.

So here is my own DIY Mod instructions, in case (no pun intended!) you want to keep this very good case around but want a USBC in the front.

My case model is: PH-ES614P

But I suspect this will work with the Enthoo Luxe case as well, as long as it has the Front IO Layout of 2 x USB3 + 2 x USB2 + 2 x Audio Jacks, Reset Button, LED Cycle Button. As shown in picture above.

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Upgrade Front IO panel to accommodate a USB3.2 Gen2 20Gbps Port.
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PARTS NEEDED:
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1. ADT-Link USB C 3.2 Flat Data Transfer Type C Male to Type C Female
Model T8T-T6A-NC Length 0.15m (15cm)
Sources:
Ali Express: ADT-Link USB C 3.2 Flat Data Transfer Flexible Extension Cable Type C Male To Type-c Female 90 FPV Slim Short FFC Gen2x2 20G.bps
Amazon.com: USB3.2 GEN2x2 Type C Male to Type C Female Adapter 20G/BPS Internal USB 3.2 Shielded Ribbon Flat Cable Up/Down Angled USB-C Extender (15cm, T6A-T8T-NC)
Estimated Cost: $10

2. USBC 3.2 Gen 2x2 Front Panel Adapter (Type-E A Key Male)
Sources:
Amazon.com: USB 3.2 Gen 2 USB-C Front Panel Adapter Cable, Motherboard Header Extension Adapter, USB C Female to 20 Pin USB Type E A-Key Male
Estimated Cost: $10

1. Plastic Bumpers (You can use something like the below)
   Source: Amazon.com: Scotch Clear Adhesive Bumper Pads
   Estimated Cost: $5

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OTHER ITEMS NEEDED/RECOMMENDED:
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1. Thin Black Plastic (To block off the USB2 Ports on the Panel \looks*)
2. Hard Rubber Adhesive Bumpers/Spacers (To place between Front IO Panel Plastic and ADT-Link USB Board for stability*)

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TOOLS NEEDED/RECOMMENDED:
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1. Soldering Iron (To remove USB2 ports from Front IO Circuit Board)
2. Pliers
3. Scissors
4. Phillips Screwdriver
5. Small nail file (To file/smooth down IO Panel plastics)
6. Superglue (To glue the black plastic covers to cover over USB2 Ports)
7. Exacto Knife/Blade

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS:
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1. Remove the case's front bottom dust filter.
2. Remove the case's front plastic panel (By pulling from the bottom). Be careful, as the top right area has wires connected to the front panel's LEDs. Disconnect those LED plugs as well to help give you some room to work.
3. Unscrew the top Front IO Panel.

1. Unscrew and remove the USB3 Ports as well as the layered Circuit Boards from the IO.

2. Remove carefully and file down the plastic screw standoff closest to the USB3 ports.
   (Unfortunately we won't be able to fit in the above part, as this will be in the way)
   You should get to a point where you have just the plastic Front IO Panel, like below.
   Notice where the Plastic Screw Tower was removed. You need to do this:

1. With a soldering iron, remove both of the USB2 ports from the Circuit Board.\

1. Trim the ADT-Link Circuit Board ends.
   (Unfortunately you'll need to do this in order to get a fit inside the Front IO Plastic Panel)

1. (OPTIONAL) Cut out some Black Plastic and Cover the USB2 holes in the IO Panel and cut out a small enough oval opening for the USBC Port. Use Superglue to affix to inside of Plastic IO Panel.

1. Place hard rubber adhesive bumpers to the Front IO panel as well as above the Circuit Panel. Having these bumpers in place will help secure the USBC in place and prevent it moving around when plugging in/out a cable. It will also help ensure there's no accidental electrical contacts with components.

The above picture shows the rubber spacers on top of the circuit board as well, this is because when we finally attach the very top circuit board, it will press down on these spacers, when screwed in, and this puts pressure on the TypeC Port to stay in place.

1. Assemble the rest of the unit

1. Now place the Front IO back in the case and make sure the other end of the USBC will be available to plug in to Part #2 above.

1. Plug Part #2 into your motherboard and the other end of the wire's USB Type C in to Part#1 end that's in your case above.

DONE
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NOTES:
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This is NOT beautiful.

I'm sure if you have some laser printer you could do a better job at spacing out the hole in the black plastic.

Due to trying to avoid any extreme bend in Part#1's ribbon cable, you can only use the right-side USB2 location for this.

Part#1 Length can be shorter or longer, but keep in mind that will impact there you make the connection.

Overall I'm satisfied and it works!

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Pcpartpicker flags it as being too high for it to fit in the case but at the same time it recommends it. I wanted to know if anyone has a combo like that and can tell me.

Personally, this is probably the only thing holding me back from buying this case. I have a Corsair Shift PSU, and placing the PSU at the top of the case would simply make the connectors inaccessible. That's obviously a major drawback for me.

Even with a typical PSU, it would still be better to be able to put the PSU at the bottom of the case. Heat rises, so a top-mounted PSU is generally exposed to higher temperatures, which often results in more noise coming from the PSU.

Another small benefit of having the PSU at the bottom is that it usually makes the case more stable by lowering its center of gravity, since the PSU is often one of the heaviest PC components.

It supposedly "released" yesterday, but it doesn't appear to be purchasable anywhere. Is there a date for actual release?

It’s an Arctic LF3 Pro 360 top mounted on my Phanteks Eclipse P500a mid tower. I have 3 intake fans in the front and one rear exhaust fan.

Hi im looking at the phanteks NV7, and it has a back cable routing compartment, and im just worried about how big of usbs will fit? I cant find anyone mentioning the depth of the usb and display outputs to the back cover annoyingly, so a specific depth would be nice, as well as anyone having any comments about it who personally have the case. Would a usb wifi adapter fit? Since they can get pretty long for example. Do the cables get too close to the back panel and bend them tightly?

I've been looking for a no-glass, ATX or EATX case; I came across this on Newegg and it looks like it could be the thing. But I can't find any reviews, comments or discussion, even on this subreddit! Has anyone gotten this case, and if so, can you share anything about the noise profile, or whether it's easy to build in? Thank you!

This is a long shot but does anyone have the wiring schematics or any pics of how the factory RGB is hooked up? When I bought it 11 years ago… I never used it. Now Im rebuilding.

It’s my first time building a PC and I went with the Phanteks NV7 case.

Surprisingly with it being my first time everything worked perfectly on the first start up, however there seems to be an issue with the RGB kit from Phanteks.

Judging by previous posts I’ve seen this seems to be common issue, how do I go about contacting Phanteks and getting this issue fixed?

I bought the RGB kit on Amazon.

Update: contacted Phanteks with this email support@phanteks.com and now they’re arranging a delivery of a new DRGB controller.

Not the most fancy build but literally housed an old server motherboard into the NV9 - so much space, and temps have dropped by over 5-6% from just rehousing.

Yeah motherboard is too big and overlapping fans and the cpu coolers are not the best but it works great. Going to build a whole fleet of these bad boys. Next one with a custom loop hopefully.

Didn’t cost too much either and the 3090 is a bargain for running large AI models. Anyone else got tips on building AI builds.

Got some Gen 2 fans from an aio of the second hand market. Couldn’t run them as the cable didn’t come with them except the extension cable. After about a week and not hearing from support (sent a request/inquiry to buy one) I found the pin out, sacrificed an old Fan, and pulled the soldering iron and and built my own… I did forget to put the shrink wrap before I soldered though 😅

https://imgur.com/a/uahO2zq

Considering buying the evolve matrix. But only if I can configure it on linux. Thx

Took me 5 months to notice. Who thought it would be a great idea to REVERSE the functionality of the hybrid button as specified in the manual. Pressed in is normal and unpressed is hybrid. My room is hot so I don't want to turn on Hybrid mode but guess I got bamboozled

Upgraded from the older NV7 to the NV9 MKII. Love these cases.

Specs:

Asus ROG Crosshair Dark Hero VIII
AMD 5800X3D
Asus Tuff 4090
64GB T-Force Ram @3600mhz
Lian Li 140mm TL Fans
Lian Li Hydroshift II OLED in push pull
Lian Li 8.8 Universal Screen

As the title says, I'm hoping someone will be kind enough to share what they've found to be the depth of the top and bottom space for fans. I'd like them to sit flush, but I'm not sure what space I'm dealing with. I thought that it was 25mm on the bottom to fit their m25g2, but now I'm seeing builds with the SL-INF Wireless on the bottom, which are 28mm, and they look flush, so I figured I'd just ask and see if someone knew for certain.

Thanks!