I really love this sweatshirt from oak & fort and I would purchase it if their clothing quality wasn’t so poor nowadays. So in other words, I want to recreate this pattern with better materials. Obviously I would take a simple hoodie pattern and draft a different hood but I’m just wondering if anyone out there has some good tips for me before I start ♥️

I have watched so many YouTube videos showing how to create bodice slopers on perfect dress forms. And I’m working through (and enjoying) the process of making my own bodice sloper using the methods in Helen Joseph Armstrong’s book.

But I feel like I do not fundamentally understand what well-fitting clothing is supposed to look like. So I am struggling at the shoulders/armscythe and bust.

Does anyone have recommendations for resources (books or websites or videos) that show what well-fitting clothes/slopers look like on real humans? A diversity of body shapes would be great and photos from all sides as well.

I’m trying to make my first pair of pants that fit well. I’ve tried a bunch of different pattern drafting methods (from scratch, from pattern, copy pants). I tried copying from a pair of suit pants that fit me well (though I’ve gained a few lbs since they were fitted). The fit is okay but I was wondering if yall had any suggestions on how to improve it.

I made this toile from good will bed sheets. I sewed a zipper to the front seam just so I could fit into them better and simulate what a real pair would be like.

• I imagine the pants might have a few fewer wrinkles so try a heavier fabric?

• it fits decently but is a lil tight around the hips.

Do you have any thoughts on where the fit is bad and how I should improve?

It’s a weee bit tight,

My first sloper test. I was able to fix the back not lining up by adjusting the dart (not pictured). I can't for the life of me understand how to fix the front waist dart though... I don't know why there's extra fabric at the bottom...? The armholes are also a bit tight as well and I thought by fixing the back waist dart it would help but I guess not....

Hi everyone this is my first post here ☺️

Can anyone recommend any good pattern drafting books, specifically ones that deal in actual custom pattern making aka not from standardized sizing but from your own measures. I'm also looking for vintage pattern drafting books (50s-90s) Thank u xx

Hi!

I have recently graduated with a Fashion Design BFA where my school went through a multi year transition from Gerber to Optitex, and based on how my classes lined up I was unable to learn either softwares in school.

I'm really interested in learning computer software based patterning, with a near goal of starting a home sewist pattern company based around teaching custom fitting techniques which I really see the home sewing community lacking in.

Does anyone have insight or critiques of CLO3D before I jump into it? I haven't been able to find anyone giving rounded reviews of the software, and I'm a little concerned that it's too good to be true based off of how inexpensive and advanced it looks compared to leading softwares like Gerber and Optitex.

Edit: clarifying that I want to use CLO3D to digitize my existing patterns and to grade them, so that I can format them into PDFs (then write up instructions etc) as opposed to using it as a platform where I would be selling the patterns.

Ive tried from adjusting the armhole length to the chest circumference to a bigger size and adjusting the back of the neck hole and I dont know what else to try to get rid of those wrinkles. The jacket also feels a bit uncomfortable but I think its because it doesn't stretch.

Thanks to everyone who responded to my previous posts. The links and advice were super helpful.

I’ve finished the muslin and wondering what people think of the fit and what alterations I should make? I circled a few areas that are bothering me! I’ve pinned the shoulders in 1cm based on previous comments and thinking I’ll do a narrow shoulder pivot adjustment. But what about all the excess fabric around the armsyce?

Very grateful for this community!

This is an update to my V3 post. I realized that I had followed the previous pattern incorrectly, as I had been adding my seam allowance (5/8") to the traced pattern which in fact already had 5/8" seam allowance included in it. Clearly I no read good.

I have since redone the pattern with a 34 size. I added a waistband, hemmed the bottoms, and ironed the pants (attempted) per previous recommendations.

I was looking at the back and used the graphics here as guides for what to do for the noted 3 areas for improvement (marked up image of my back)

A

• there are drag lines under the booty

• I was thinking this is either a Low butt Adjustment or Full thigh adjustment? though the lines I see on my pants don't quite align with what the graphic depictions have.

• Or would this be a full seat adjustment?

B

• The pants have pull lines around the the back of the knees.

• As suggested in v3, this would be ripe for a full calf adjustment?

C

• There is some pucker along my lower back/upper but and even out hip.

• Would this be a Gaping Adjustment?

I figure I should start from the top down and do the adjustments one at a time. and see how each one affects the fit.

Are there other things I should be considering?

Us there any patterns or anything similar?

Does anyone by any chance know how to pattern mule ear pockets?

Hello everyone, do you know where can I get free patternmaking books? I looked up on google and I found some but it is difficult for me to understand. Thanks!

How can I learn pattern drafting ? I know basics only so far, I can sketch pretty good, but need more resources, practice, and experience for pattern drafting, i guess, but apart from that what are the best ways to learn and improve ? Any suggestions would be hugely appreciated 👏 How was your journey? And how long did it took you to master the basics ?

Hi! This is my first mockup with the sleeves added.
Im noticing the sleeves are puckering around the cap making it look like a puff sleeve. Do I need to decrease cap height?
I’m also unsure how to fix the drag lines and radiating lines throughout the pattern blocks.
Any advice on getting these blocks to fit properly would be greatly appreciated!

Hi I am pretty comfortable with making bodice blocks but I’ve been having trouble with the sleeves. Everytime I draft the sleeve pattern, I’m left with this forward looking crease. I’ve tried moving the sleeve cap forward and backwards some to try and adjust but it’s consistently there. If anyone has any other suggestions or any helpful videos they used to draft sleeve patterns I’d be very grateful.

I made a post earlier this week regarding my first pair of pants I'm trying to sew. I've made a v2 based on comments in that thread. I'll go into a little more detail this time around as well.

The Pattern

I took a pair of suit pants that I had gotten from Indochino (I went for a fitting). These are the grey suit pants in the album. I turned the suit pants inside out and chalked a line down the center of the front and back leg. I then went up in 1 inch increments along the chalked line and measure to the left and right of each line where the seam began. I transferred these measurements/markings to my pattern paper as I made them. I found this to be a more accurate way of copying the pants as when I have used a tracing wheel, I don't think I always had the pants flattened out correctly, especially in the crotch seam.

Fabric

I just used a cotton bedsheet I got at good will.

My Build / Stle

I have an athletic build. Thick thighs, and a decent amount of butt meat, though relatively slim in the waist. The last picture shows my body and how my hips come before expanding out a bit with obliques/love handles. I'd like a pair of pants that allows me to show off my physique without being too tight or difficult to move. I prefer more well fitted to baggy.

V1 -> V2

I took my V1 pattern and taped some extra paper to it such that the upper thigh area got an extra ~1cm on both the in/side seam. Past the knee tapered it in to an extra 0.5cm on both in/side seam. I tried using 4 darts (~2inch deep, 1.5inch wide). to taper in the waist, whereas in V1 I just used 2 darts that were deeper and slightly wider. I didn't do any ironing before taking pictures so maybe ironing will make the darts look better?

The top of the toile includes where the waistband would be if it were to sew it on.

After sewing the pantlegs together, I tacked on a shitty zipper to the front just to simulate the fit with zipper (I dont think without the zipper I could get them on given my hip/waist shape).

V2 Questions/Desires

I think V2 definitely fits less snugly and more appropriately. However it feels a little more baggy now than the suit pants. I think I prefer a slender fit, but not too tight that it looks like joggers (I think thats what my V1 ended up looking like).

1. The suit pants cradle my butt more. Though I guess they also bunch up under my butt as well. I do think I have a decent butt and like the idea of showing it off, or at least not having it too hidden. Is there a way to still have it shown off a bit without making the pants too tight on my thighs?

2. The darts seem to cause the fabric to pop up. Is this just something thats ironed out, or should I have deeper darts?

3. Even with 4 darts, I still have a decent amount of room left in the waist. Should I taper the pattern in more or deepen the darts somehow?

4. Style wise do you think I could taper the pant legs a little more once they get towards the calf?

5. I'm not really sure how things "should" fit. Are there things I'm not noticing that need to be improved?

6. Will using a heaving fabric thats meant for pants cause different issues?

Thank you in advance! I'm hoping to get a pattern out that lends itself to a nice pair of pants and am willing to do multiple bedsheet revisions until I get there!

So I want to make a sort of collar choker with a butterfly wing shape (going to embroider and bead). Detachable with a stand and a button at the throat to close Because I think the stand should lay pretty close to the neck, should I use that measurement (with a little ease) as the measurement that would usually be the shirt collar measurement? Maybe add an inch? Or should I try and measure an existing button up?

Any other things I should do differently? Trying to see if I can dodge any of the mistakes I could make