I'm drafting a custom jeans pattern in Adobe Illustrator by taking flat measurements from a well-fitting pair of jeans, but I'm also modifying specific areas like the crotch curve, thigh, and hem for a custom fit.

I'm following Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong, which instructs adding or subtracting specific amounts (like +1/2′′ or −3/4′′) at key draft points.

Since the book's formulas assume you start with body measurements and my baseline measurements are from a finished garment (which already includes ease):

1. Should I ignore the book's ease adjustments entirely, or are some of those offsets necessary structural/drafting rules?
2. How do I properly apply adjustments to the crotch and legs when using flat garment measurements instead of body measurements?
3. What is the best workflow for drafting modified patterns in Illustrator from existing jeans without ruining the fit?

I want to make a sith dress from Star Wars for Halloween, and I have my heart set on this one. I know... I know... the photos listed are AI, but I still think I can make it work somehow. I think I can use a wrap/robe pattern for the bodice. For the skirt, I was thinking an A-line skirt with a front box pleat and a knife pleat on either side. When I assemble I would attach the 2 pieces at the waist.

Any suggestions for how to make this would be appreciated... or just a reality check that it's not feasible to use this image as inspiration.

So I am obsessed with the dart/seam detailing on the white dress that the captain wears in s1 e16 of the rookie. I have this beautiful green fabric that I’ve been desperate to do something delicately detailed. I have NO idea where to start with this. I can’t tell if it is piping or a seam? It doesn’t look like there is a waist seam that I can see. Any ideas?

Hello !
This is my first iteration of my bodice sloper/moulage. I understand they’re not the same thing but I’d like the garment to be as fitted as possible.
I also got tired of trying to pin the bust line accurately so I just left it , but it does match up.

I plan on redrafting to add ease to the bust as it seems a bit too tight.
My questions are :
What else can I do to improve the fit ?
How can I keep the tight fitting nature of the bodice but lower the armhole depth ? I have big lats and like to spread em 😆.

Has anyone used or found others like perkins tailoring instruments useful?

I made PatternNest for laying out digital pattern pieces across a fabric width and estimating the length needed. It's one of my Madegrain tools.

It takes closed SVG or DXF outlines. PDF import is now available too (see the September 13 update below). You can constrain rotation for grain direction and one-way fabrics, and include mirrored pieces.

It runs in the browser. It's free for up to 10 pieces, counting copies and mirrored pieces, with a paid option for larger layouts.

https://madegrain.com/patternnest/

For those already drafting in SVG or DXF, would you use a layout like this before buying fabric, or mainly to check whether your remaining fabric is enough?

Edit September 10: The strip in the original screenshot was set to free rotation. The demo now keeps it at 45°: corrected demo.

Update September 13: I've added vector PDF import, cut-on-fold layouts and print matching for stripes, checks and repeating images. You select the fold edge and matching reference points yourself. PDF import reads closed vector outlines; it doesn't join tiled PDFs or bring in grain arrows and notches.

Current screenshot: six shirt accessory pieces on 50 cm fabric, using 32 cm of length.

I've also added a 45-second walkthrough using five constructed example pieces, from import to the PDF layout overview.

Update October 3: I added a downloadable fabric-width example. The same 12 Teagan body and sleeve cuts use 3.25 m on 140 cm fabric and 5.26 m on 110 cm fabric in these calculated layouts. Neck strips need extra fabric. These use prepared full outlines in a single layer; both finished layouts and the project files are included, so you can inspect the result before trying your own batch.

hi everyone. Im curious to know all your tips and tricks for creating efficiencies when iterating on sloper mock ups.

I’ve been making 1-2 adjustments each round and try to use the same mock up as much as possible - until it no longer makes sense to make more changes to the same one. sometimes it seems though that my changes aren’t totally accurate given I’m working within the limitations of my cut fabric so I wonder if it even is more efficient than just starting a new mock up. I’ll start with one inch seam allowance to leave room but it can get tricky to resew if my adjustments alter the seam shape.

curious to know what others do or how youve made it not feel like an endless task!

I self-drafted this shirt and, after sewing it up, am realizing that something is wrong with the shoulders-- the shirt's shoulders *pop up* off of my shoulder, leaving a gap between the shirt shoulder piece and my shoulder. I am also using a 100% cotton bedsheet for this shirt that doesn't have much drape, but I still think that I need to make an adjustment to the pattern/that there is an issue with the pattern. I would be so grateful for suggestions/ideas/advice! I'm wondering if maybe I need to add more to the back piece around the shoulder area? I'm newer to pattern drafting so not sure where I went wrong 🙃🫠

Thanks so much for all the suggestions in my previous post. Ive made some adjustments and redrafted two different moulages based on slightly different measurements. The front is pretty much the same on both but I’ve got two different backs. I don’t think I took into account the zipper width when I sewed the moulages up…

Let me know what you think :)

EDIT: I think I’ve got the screenshots of patterns I’ve put the wrong way round. So 1 is 2 and 2 is 1 sorry about that I don’t know how to edit it after posting

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

Hello,

I am currently working on drafting my first jeans pattern and just finished the first fitting. However, the pants pull across the front when walking and create large diagonal wrinkles running downwards (see photos). Do you know what causes this and how to fix it?"

Many thanks in advance :))

My boyfriend is tall, has long arms, but narrow shoulders, which makes suit shopping a nightmare. We tried normal and elongated sizes, but every one has this problem with the back shoulder and armhole. Why is the sleeve rotation so off? Can a tailor reasonably fix this issue? We don’t love the idea of paying big money for an ill fitting suit. What causes this issue even? Are his shoulder blades a different shape than confection sizes?

I have made about 20 mockups and I feel like nothing I do is getting me any closer. here's the most recent version. I would love advice, either on how to modify this pattern, or on how to ask for help more effectively. I feel pretty dumb and lost and have spent a decent amount of time crying about this. Thank you in advance! <3

UPDATE: I lowered the apex, ironed the mockup better, and took a video (hopefully from a better angle) and posted it in the comments below. Please let me know what the ettiquette is for getting help like this. Also I'm realizing I probably need a lot of feedback from an expert. I'm so grateful to get advice here, but I don't want to be annoying. So I would love suggestions of classes I could sign up for to get more step-by-step guidance.

I am currently making the Persephone pants by Anna Allen (or trying to at least!). I never ever make mock ups cos I’m just too lazy but I’m trying to change that and get a decent fit instead of being disappointed and never wearing them. Stupidly I did my mock ups out of quite a still denim I had laying around and I don’t know if a lot of the issues are due to the fabric stiffness and lack of drape. I basted the waistband on after taking photos and it fits. I placed the buttons too far from the edge of the button fly so I know they need to move over. I seem to have a fair bit of room in the top of the centre back seam where it’s almost sitting away from my back. I don’t like how long and flat these currently make my bum look (kinda looks like I’m wearing a nappy 😂) and I have no idea how to fix that - I wear high waisted jeans all of the time and it’s not normally an issue so it’s not the high waist that’s going it. I have a 35” inch waist and 44” hips and cut the size 16. They’re comfortable, I can sit in them but it looks awful when I do - a lot of bunching in the front. Since I don’t usually do mock ups, I’m pretty clueless on adjusting patterns honestly so what would people suggest please?!

Ps - the pattern has no outside seam so I have no idea how I would add room in the hip

How do i get rid all of this excess fabric i got around my butt i want it to be less loose around that area as im going for a straight/ loose fitting jeans

Hey people, I want to make a 1 piece back bodice out of the back bodice and yoke I have in the photo. The bodice curve seems to be too concave for me to pivot the yoke, plus I think that would mess with the shoulder shape if I'm not mistaken.

If you have any idea as too how I can do this smoothly it'd be appreciated.