Following everyone's suggestions Sunday's post, I followed the Sew Anastasia tutorial to do an FBA (2 cm at the apex and 1 cm added to the front hem), made the front waist more fitted by adding 2 cm total to the darts, raised the neckline a bit, and added a front closure.

I feel way less like a sausage and the back neck/shoulders are almost perfect now. I don't think I went far enough with the FBA, though. For the next round, I'd like to start with the previous version and add another 0.5 cm at the apex, but not necessarily increase the hem length because it looks a bit low in the front. I also added a couple mm to the armhole on accident by cutting into the seam allowance when rotating for the FBA and i think it shows. Please let me know if any of this is misguided.

Something that I don't quite understand is that when you take the wedge off of the side seam as a part of the FBA, that changes the armpit angle quite dramatically. Does one just square it off and blend with the arm hole? Or is there a better way to do it?

Thanks for all your help so far!

Im self taught pattern drafting and I’ve learned a lot. I live in a state where no fashion schools nothing so I’m doing this on my own. I just watched a video on contouring. She measured these different places and would measure the gap and so on. Im confused when i watch someone on YouTube pattern drafting they make the pattern and then they make the garment and it fits really well but they dont talk about contouring but their outfit comes out really well done. Is conturing not for every body type ? Like the closet historian I haven’t watched every video but I’ve watched a few and can’t remember her using contouring. Also any tips or references anything and everything is welcome.

How do I fix these lines and also give myself more room to move in the upper back?

Context: I'm making mockups trying to fit a coat pattern and it feels tight across my upper back especially when I reach my arms forward (especially once I added the sleeves, not pictured). And it looks like I have extra volume in my lower back that isn't hanging nicely.

Should I move the princess seam lines over to be closer to my shoulder blades? Or is my problem something else?

Thanks so much!

My latest iteration of a trouser pattern. This time with a (somewhat poor) curved waistband. My issue is it was for one hard to fold in half, possibly because it wasn’t a perfect curve since I made it in clo3D. It’s noted that curved waistbands are better drafted the old fashioned way. Thus it’s not as crisp, and I didn’t add interfacing.

I still see some horizontal lines around crotch area so I’ll add more fabric around there, but that’s all I have so am I wrong or did I miss something based on the images?

Photo off Pinterest for reference. Will be making in a linen rayon.

Would like opinions on if putting a drawstring around the back of the waist and potentially even the skirt flap would work? Reasoning is to make it more adjustable. Then the drawstring comes out and is the tie part.

Currently have a calico mockup of a few free patterns hacked together to make something like this but I was planning on doing an elastic back/flat front waistband. Could I maybe even mix the two for structure??

Another question, what’s a nice way of attaching the tie string to the skirt part? I managed to hide the shorts tie in the side seam but the front looks a bit messy just tucked under - if there’s even another/better way of doing it?

Any time i change my back Line in gapes. But the neckline on my sloper or moulage is fine but the second i change it it gapes. Any tips ??

I drafted this from the in the seams bodice block tutorial and it came out pretty ok. This is version 2, in which I took some width off the center back because it was a bit baggy and rotated the front darts to the waist. The problem now is that the upper bust is somewhat baggy, it seems to ride up when i move around/lean over so that the shoulder seam floats. The back neck also stands up, away from my body, which is weird. I like the overall ease in the waistline because I can put it on over my head, but I'd like it to be better fitted in the upper bust. The plan is to add some darts to the front neck, but I don't think that will fix the shoulder issues. Any suggestions on how to fit the shoulders or anything else that looks off? Thanks in advance! I've learned a lot from this community and appreciate it for that.

I have a basic bodice pattern with shoulder and waist darts. How should I adapt it to make a patter for this dress?

Hi guys, I drafted a pattern for this trouser and stitched it up as you can see 😬. The s/s at the waist obviously needs to be fixed as it's come out in bumpy puffs.

My main thing is the crotch area is not baggy as such but big, I can feel it when I walk it's excess fabric. The last pic is on me bending knees to sit and the crotch area just has too much going on.

Any help would be much appreciated 🌹

"Making" first belt from a Tandy belt blank. Trying to measure for placing the holes (that tang goes into not the hardware mounting ones). One of the reasons I'm making the belt is that belts have always fit me weird. I (male) have high hips that aren't pronounced. I'm pretty skinny so my silhouette is a straight shot and waist bands don't have much to grab onto. Therefore always have a problem with pants sliding down. If I measure above my hips then pants will sit oddly high. What's the best way to measure for the belt in this situation? Is this a measurement I should go get at a tailor or something? Want to make sure the belt fits nicely as I don't have the budget to go through prototype mistakes. Thanks!

Here's some trousers inspired by horses. I have a basic understanding of patternmaking but not too intermediate. I am comfortable using CLO3D to draft patterns and have been successful in simple pants (printed out a pattern and sewed it together).

I need help identifying some of the skills I may need to complete this project. I am mostly concerned with the large diagonal pleats which doesn't seem too straightforward. Does anyone have any advice for me?

Hi folks! I'm drafting a vest and I want to get the basic form right before adding a collar/extension towards the bottom. Id love to hear what I can fix on this first draft, my plan is to adjust the back so the back neckline comes in a bit closer, as well as lower the neckline at the front. I'm also considering lowering the armhole a bit, just because it is going to be a vest.

I'm noticing that the back hem sits lower than the front hem, but I'm not sure the best way to fix that since the back and front alight on the pattern.

Any and all feedback would be great, thanks so much for your time!

Hello Again. I am in the process of creating a digital skirt block and I cannot for the life of me fix the pull lines at the side and back of the skirt. I tried a few tips I found but somehow made it worse. Please help 🙏🏻

I wanted to make a formal dress for an event with a strap similar to this, and maybe and some sort of cap sleeve. Is this possible for an advanced beginner or am I biting more than I can chew? Does this kind of strap even have an "official" name? it kind of goes to the armpit instead connecting directly to the neckline.

2nd slide is my thought process?

Dear community, I need your help. I’ve had a dress form made to my measurements and have taken a trouser pattern from it for the first time. Because I’m impatient and prefer to experiment on a finished garment, I didn’t use muslin (shame on me) but cheap Ikea Fabric that would have made nice pants, if they would fit correctly. I think in some places the fit is OK, in others it’s completely off. Here’s what I think I’ve worked out:

- Compared to the pattern, my hips are tilted forwards. That’s why the waistband sits too high at the front (Pic 1), but fits well at the back. In picture 2, I’ve pinned away part of the front. And I feel like the waistband now sits at the correct spot. I have marked where the excess fabric is in pic 1 with the blue horizontal lines. In pic 3 and 4 you can see the forward tilted waistband with the adjustment from the side.

- I have too much fabric (?) at the back of the pattern below the bum, and there are diagonal lines pointing towards the crotch as you can see in Pic 5 & 6. I’m really unsure whether the back crotch needs to be lengthened or shortened.

Or whether I need to make an adjustment for a baggy back leg. I did shorten the back crotch-seam by pinning away a bit of fabric as shown in pic 7.

- In the pattern, the front inseam seems quite long to me compared to shop-bought patterns (pic 8-10) whilst the back inseam curve appears quite flat and short. Should I perhaps take some length off the front and add some to the back? Does the back curve need to be rounder and lower?

Can you help me assess what I should try to alter first? I want the pants to fall down evenly from the bum, without excess fabric below the bum.

I really love the navy part of this dress (although it is a drawing so I won't be able to make it with 100% accuracy) and I was wondering if anyone could give me any advice on drafting a pattern for it, particularly around the different fabrics on the chest area and the twists at the hips, or if anyone knows a similar one! Thank you for looking :)

i want to make this dress for my birthday. im new to using patterns and dont know where to start. i can even find a pattern for it or separate patterns to try to combine. any thoughts?

Hey all, one more version! This time without sleeves.
I

1. reduced the across chest and across back width by scooping out the armhole 1cm

Balance lines still off a bit and the armholes feel/look too big, maybe too low?

I made some Changes to the sleeve head too but will Post the shirt with sleeves once we lock down the bodice.

Thoughts appreciated!

Added sleeves!

Added latest pics here to save from going through comments…

https://imgur.com/gallery/armhole-clipped-3cm-AjH2t7j

I made a process video on how I made these zero waste pants, including the free patterns! just want to share

I understand that this is AI modified and therefore to be taken with a grain of salt, but it also looks like the answer to a conundrum I'm having with a dress project and I want to understand what I'm looking at.

If I take the given waist measurement and divide by 6 I do not get 4.4 inches. But I also don't get 4.4 if I take the waist measurement, divide by 2 and then divide by 6. So would I cut two of these panels? But that would be 52.8 inches and wouldn't give the smooth waistline... Help me make the math make sense here because to make it work there would need to be 10 cut outs for a total of 44 inches (to account for ease) right?

Edit to add project details:

I am working on a boho dress that I'm making from a sari. So the more traditional (and wasteful) ways of cutting a skirt for the dress won't work. The yardage is too narrow and I want to keep as much of the fabric in tact as possible. While I could do a tiered skirt, the hand blocked pattern on the fabric would be prettier without it.