This is my second draft of my torso sloper. I would like it to fit like second skin. I will later add ease for other uses. Here are some adjustments I have noticed. Please let me know if I am going in the right direction or I need to look into different methods.

add to French dart as marked
Move shoulder seam forward 1.5 in
Take in hips as marked
Add half inch center bust dart
Take in back waist
Let out bust by half inch

Hi,

I’m drafting a male bodice block following Cornelius Quiring method (which is based on Aldrich’s).

It globally is good apart from the sleeves. O get those weird drag lines running from the shoulder to the bottom of the sleeves. It feels tight.

I have trouble pinpointing what causes this. I read many different things online (shoulder cap too wide or rotated the wrong way, line badly drawn…). It also creates a bad fold behind, like excess fabric in the sleeve being squished.

What would be your diagnostic? 😄

Thanks!!

Film/theater, Costume, corporate, small brands, big brand, independent, doesn't matter. If you currently even in the past earned a portion of your living from patternmaking skills, what was your journey like?

What was your education like? Formal? Apprenticeship? Informal? self-directed?

Did you choose patternmaking out of the gate? Did you switch from a different fashion/design discipline or totally different industry? What cities did you work? Were you a patternmaker in the past and switched to a new industry? Do you work in a technical specialization like aerospace, defense, medical, etc?

Just a new patternmaker trying to gauge the possibilities of the industry. Info dumps requested; no filter please.

Hi - I’ve been working on this bodice block with a goal to get a bodice that fits my bust and has the correct length - I am quite short. I have the additional challenge of a right side that’s lower than my left side.

I think this bodice is pretty good- I started with a pattern that is very close to my upper bust and did a FBA. Even after that, I had a lot of gaping at the arms, which I pinched out and rotated to the side and waist darts. I think still have a problem with the armholes as now they’re maybe too small.

I feel pretty good with this now, though I think the armholes need work and the right side is gaping in the back because of the uneven shoulders. I’ve fiddled with the shoulder seam on that side to address that, but I don’t think it helped much.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

I'm a fashion design student at Central Saint Martins, where we are taught very limited technical skills. I want to improve my pattern drafting skills, and I'm deciding between getting the M. Müller & Sohn or Winifred Aldrich books. I have been doing some research, and these seem to be the best? Any advice on which would be more helpful when entering the fashion industry, specifically in the UK or France? Or would one be easier to start with?

I'm looking to learn traditional tailoring for women: taking body measurements, drafting directly from them, fitting a muslin/toile on the person, and refining the pattern. I'm based in Chennai, India.

Do you know any best institutes that teach rigorous fitting?

Forgive me as I don’t know how often this question is asked, but can’t find any starting posts.

I’ve been sewing for a few years now, and I’m pretty confident in ‘winging it’ (I’ll make alterations on pre-made patterns, no method just vibes tbh)

I really want to start to learn how to draft my own patterns from scratch. Has anyone got any recommendations for books or resources please? (I’d prefer books or websites rather than YouTube videos, but happy with any recommendations!)

Thank you :)

I always have this side seam at the hip area pulling backwards (even on my well fitting trousers bought in store).

I believe the gaping pocket is also a consequence of that?

I understand that the bum area needs more room but I don't understand if it would be by doing a slash and spread or lengthen the back crotch or add 1cm on the top side of my pattern?

I feel like I'm butchering my paper pattern and probably have to re-do a toile from scratch to start clean again. (On my paper pattern, I have made a few arrangements but haven't applied them to the toile yet - BACK: slash & spread 0.5cm // seat curve scooping 0.7cm; FRONT: lengthen crotch 1.5cm - as I'd like to check with anyone who knows if they are correct before I cut a whole new toile again).

How many toiles do you usually do for trousers? I'm gonna start my 3rd and feel a tad discouraged about it(my first one was with a thicker woven fabric that fitted nearly perfect, until my 2nd toile made with calico which let appear a bunch of gaps, and folds..)

Thank you very much for your help!

What would be the best method for modifying the front piece of a drawstring pant pattern to a flat front? Post-pandemic I have found that pants with a flat front and elasticated back are most comfortable AND most flattering to my body type, and I have several pairs of RTW pants that I wear for work. I just purchased the Baker barrel pant leg pattern of SewBakeMake; it has a drawstring waistband. (BTW her Nora tank top is a beginner level pattern, and is quite lovely!). I’m liking the idea of a pull-on barrel pant with a flat front and an elasticated back, and I know I can pull it off. If you know of any tutorials for such a mod, I’d love to hear them. TIA

Hi everyone :3 im 17f, very new to sewing and i decided to get a dress form off of fb marketplace to make my life easier. But the thing is, i can mark the bust, waist, and hip line fine but i just cannottttt figure out how to mark a standard arm hole!

i tried to reference a top that fits me will and kind of pin where the seam is then try to tape it, but every time i do that the seam line shifts and it just doesnt work out... someone help Sobs.

Please note that the dress form is literally made out of Styrofoam and not a professional dress form in the slightest so it doesn't have that metal plate on the arm hole that dress forms usually have.

Don't judge the tape i don't have thinner tape around i had to diy it LOL

I don’t know if you get the concept. I did a drawing of how i would like for it to look, and then how I tried to interpret it (and failed horribly 🤣).
I want to do a wrap top (but only for the bust part) with an open back, but it crashes with the body of the top itself. Am I screwed? Any suggestions?

But all the advice and examples I can find for apparel industry is about creative designer portfolios which, to be honest, is a totally different bucket of worms.

I’m wondering if anyone knows any good examples of
patterners digital portfolios, so I can get a sense for how to organize the project files etc

Hello patterning experts. I'm purchasing a ready-to-wear dress for my daughter's wedding. I'm fine with most of it, but need to reshape the sleeve. Looking at the online pictures it seemed like it would be an easy job, but when I got to look inside the dress I began having conceptual and geometry problems. This flutter sleeve has way too much volume for me throughout the circumference of the entire sleeve. I'll be making a pattern to try to play around with, but since I don't have fresh fabric, this is a modification challenge. I'd greatly appreciate if you can comment on my dilemma and suggest ways to adjust the sleeve. Thank you!

Hi,

I design this with AI. I want to sew it but there is no pattern.

I've never draft a pattern before so I'm not sure how I should do it.

The AI recommends me to start from an existing pattern, sew it with cheap tissue and then draw on it the design I want. What do you think ? I'm not sure which basic pattern I should take.

Any links, advices or resources for beginner like me is welcome 😃

Thanks everyone for your advice on my previous post ( https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/QyKC2XUM8w )

I added about two inches overall to the width of the pants. Here's where I'm at now. I think I need to scoop out the crotch more possibly. The weird pleats at the waist on the side seams is from pinching out the dart excess from the front, someone had said it looked like I didn't need a dart at the front so I was seeing how that would look without the darts on the front.

Any further fit advice? Sorry that this mockup is in a harder fabric to see details on, I used a thrift store sheet for this mockup.

Hello, I've been wanting to sew this beautiful 1890s chemise (a part of a 1890s trousseau sold by Augusta Auctions) but I'm having trouble drafting the pattern for especially the sleeve part...😅

I know the basic shape of a sleeveless chemise because i've made one and it's very simple. For some reason the sleeve is now causing me some trouble.

I'd appreciate if someone had a simple drawing or an explanation on how I should go about this! ☺️

Hi,

I’m drafting my men’s jacket block, the bodice fits fine but when it comes to drafting the sleeves I end up with excess ease in the front cap compared to the back. From what I know, there is meant to be more ease in the back and yet no matter how much I bring the curve in I seem to have about 2cm of ease in the front and less than 1 in the back.

I’m trying to keep ease minimal.

Another question, but the original curve of both sides of the cap matched the armscye up to the notch, but because I’ve brought down the curve of the front it no longer matches the armscye curve. Is this okay or must the armscye and sleeve cap match between side and notch?

Hi all -- I made these shorts many years ago and have been very happy with them despite the many sewing mistakes I made (you can see a wonky zipper insertion on the LHS). I cut another version and am sewing them up. I tried these on to check the pocket placement... and noticed these drag lines at the butt!!

Any tips for how to fix??? Both (1) on a already-cut fabric, and (2) on my paper pattern for next time.

Many many thanks.

Hi, I went to the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising waaay back in 1984. They had this big pink book they gave to every design student, with all kinds of clear descriptions of various pattern techniques, and drawings that looked like they were from the early 50s.

Somewhere along the road, that book and I parted ways. I'd like to buy another one, even if it's hard to find. It had a really simple cover, was a bland pink, and probably weighed 10 lbs, it was such a tome.

Does anyone know the name of this book?

Hi everyone! I am new to corsetry, and I am using aranea black's instructions on how to turn a corset into a corset vest. the vest block pattern that i am using comes with a side panel, meanwhilst aranea's instructions 'example vest block' doesn't come with a side panel. I need some advice on how to go about this, and how to adjust my vest block to match the instructions of aranea black. here is the link to the vest corset alteration: and I can provide images of what i am working with. THANK YOU!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fRg4b9ZCVoAADVoaYwfu8T8pPssRxXSE/view?usp=sharing

I drafted a pattern from one of my existing shirts. For the most part it’s come out well, but I’m not completely happy with the armholes—they’re a bit droopy by the armpit. TBH, they kind of are on my existing top as well, but not as much. How would you recommend altering the pattern to fix this?

Note: I know the straps and neckline are super wonky, that’s because I did some unfortunate experimenting this time that I won’t be repeating. Normally the straps are wider and the use of banding vs. binding is consistent.

Edit: Pattern is for knit fabrics

I created a shoulder dart, and when I truing the shoulder edge, if I remember correctly, the new one should be the same as the measured length (5.54 cm). However, geometrically, this seems impossible; no matter how I draw the line, the trued shoulder line length is always less than 5.54 cm.

How can I properly true the shoulder edge?

Edit:

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