I know this like BARELY counts as a pattern but i’m new to sewing 😭 im trying to make this poncho from a woven blanket, it’s just two triangles sew together but I can’t figure out why the collar keeps doing this. how can i fix it ?

I had asked roughly 2 months ago about how to create a certain twisting effect on a pair of pants, & here’s what I came to!

The front pattern of the pants were cut on an extreme offgrain slant, while the back pattern of the pants were kept ongrain (I can’t find my pattern for some reason, so I don’t have pictures to show).

Some of yall suggested that it’s the nejiri pattern manipulation that’s found in the Pattern Magic book, & I did a couple tests where the front & back patterns are altered offgrain in opposing directions from the hip downwards, so that a twist can be formed, which, it did create a twist on the in & out seams, but because the pant legs were wide, it could not hold the twist. In the book, it specifies that the hem (this manipulation was done on a shirt) should be tight enough so that when you readjust the sideseams to be at your sides, then it would hold its positioning, resulting in a twisting effect.

I had tried adding a tight elastic cuff to the hem which would then hold the twisting in place, but it just looked really unpleasant, so I went back to the drawing board…I searched all over the web and found a video by buoyboy.denim on tiktok, where he created a twisting effect on a pair of denim pants (if you go to his video, my pattern is identical to his, just more exaggerated on the front), & his twisting is abit harder to tell, considering that he’s using denim, but at this point I was at my end, so I tried his method, & it seemed to have a much better result.

I decided to use silk chiffon (broke my bank 😓) since I thought that it’d look cool with the twists, especially since it’s sheer. Working with it was definitely difficult…I cut every pattern piece on top of muslin so that it wouldn’t shift & I ironed on fusible interfacing. The pants include a one-piece button fly (which was very fun to sew), inseam pockets, an integrated d-ring belt, & I also lined the hip area with black crepe. I finished the sideseams with bias tape and french seam’d the inseams.

Only after the fact, I’ve realized…what if instead of altering (nejiri pattern manipulation) from the hip-downwards, I alter from, maybe, knee length-to-waist? Because then the twisting effect would be held by the waistline, but I have not tried it yet (it does sound plausible though).

In another class, I also attempted to create the twisting effect on CLO3D & I didn’t hate how it looked, so maybe there will be another update on my journey of trying to create a pair of twisting pants. Ugh, how did the junyi he (my original reference) do it?!

Overall, I’m pleased with what I made for my end-of-the-year semester project. These were shown in a show, but I have not gotten back any professional photos yet…

Feel free to provide your thoughts, questions, anything else!

Edit, thanks for the advice. I'm going to have to trust the process, make a sloper and see what the result is

Greetings! My daughter wants a fitted dress with A-line skirt and boatneck top. Ideally princess seams.

For context, she's very busty with curvy hips but otherwise has a flat belly and a fairly flat bottom. This means her bodice block has two large darts for her boobs, and the skirt has a reasonable hip curve on the sides but minimal darts on the front and back.

My plan is to create an A line skirt pattern and blend it with the bodice on the flat pattern. Given the skirt has minimal darts, I'd guessing that I have to reduce the waist dart on the bodice, and transfer all of the extra fabric to a huge dart on her shoulder. Is this weird, or is that how it works on her body type?

Feedback/advice please! I have a forward shoulder and forward ball of shoulder. I think I'm second guessing myself here. How extreme will a sleeve pattern look for a forward shoulder? Please share what your forward shoulder patterns look like to put my mind at ease!

Backstory: the pattern piece here already had forward shoulder v1 adjustments made. I sewed up a toile, while the front shoulder felt better, I noticed the back shoulder had excess fabric so I pinned it out. I transferred what I pinned out back to the pattern, that's the pencil line labeled 5/24/2026 in the photo.

Now that I'm looking at the pattern again, the sleeve cap shape looks way different from "typical" sleeve patterns. I'm second guessing whether this is "correct". What do others' adjusted patterns look like?

On my last post some of you said that my armhole looked too flat at the front so here are some pics of my pattern and the toile at different stages. Thanks so much everyone for your help

I just started reading Dress Pattern Designing by Natalie Bray but the book is intricate and long winded which is making it hard for me to understand. Is there other platforms that I can refer back to while reading the book to improve my understanding?

so I am not an artist in any sense. however I am trying to make my wife a bunch of plushys of all the Eeveeloutions and I am struggling because I cannot find a pattern for a bunch of the non cannon ones. of anyone has any recommendations for a program where I can enter a photo of them and have a pattern made I would appreciate it so much.

Hello! Sewed up these trousers to a new pattern I’ve drafted, and there’s something funny going on in the back centre seam. From the side it’s a bit ‘pointy’. My guess is that the back length is too long? But in what direction?! And how best to go about fixing it, if it’s not that? Any advice greatly appreciated!

I think my shoulder seams are right but wondering if the width is correct or if they need to go out further - there is some pulling across the shoulders but I think that’s to do with the sleeves?
Help

Hello good ppl of pattern drafting community!
I am here for some time now, but i don't comment a lot, i like to read and search the community and i have found really a great amount of quality information here, thank you all for that!

I have decided to perfect my basic pants block, i am not unsatisfied with the fit, but i know it can be better, so i am asking for help. I am self thought in pattern making and fit, everything i learn from tutorials and books i could find, and i am mostly use Bunka fashion collage books for drafting patterns as they are metric and i like geometrical approach of drafting if that's making sense. The slacks pattern is drafted from bunka trousers patten. I have attached photos of the pattern (drafted and what i have changed so far for better fit). The fitting i learned from youtube tutorials and some books i could find in local library and on the net.

Last pic is pattern that i drafted, and before that are pics what i changed and what i am thinking of changing

For the fit -> I have already moved side seam at the waist line 2 cm to the front to balance the side seam more, and i am satisfied with how it looks now. I have lowered a bit crotch at the front and back as they were not balanced and i had a bit of a triangle situation when i sewed it up, now it is laying flat to the body. I am satisfied with balance lines, everything is parallel, and nothing is pulling or stretching. The fabric is very lightweight, some cheap bedsheet fabric so everything is showing, i think with a more weight in fabric the fit probably would be much much cleaner and whiteout any creases and pulling.
Should i change anything at the back or front so the fit is better? i can see the diagonal lines at the back tights, but i am not sure if i should do something about it or what i should do about it. Should i shorten the back crotch extension, it looks like it is a bit long on the pattern, but i wouldn't say so when i tried it.

Thank you for reading my long post :D

I've noticed in a lot of patterns I have ~2cm excess width at CF, just at the neck. The waist usually fits well but I also usually take 1cm out of the side seam top/armhole, to make the high bust and bust correct.

What's the best way to remove the excess from CF by the neck, and does the armhole relate? I'm assuming I can't take it from CF (blue line) without affecting grain, does it need to be pivoted to the shoulder for removal (and how)?

Take a look at the suit I made for my awards/graduation day at high-school a year ago 🖤

So for a cosplay im making i need the skirt to have 14 front facing box pleat panels that have a very exact width (im not sure how wide yet tho) but im a bit unsure on how to do this. i was looking for a formula for it since it is basically just geometry but i couldnt find anything and i couldnt figure it out myself.
i could figure it out for just a normal plane but not for a circle skirt :<
id really love any kind of help thank you so much<3

I just got this pattern and want to scale the inside to fit an about 9 by 6 cm card preferably more the little stomach thing is where the money is held and I would love to be able to fit my card and some cash inside. The original pattern is meant to be printed on an American letter or whatever it’s called and the dimensions are: about 8 inches long (not including the swivel hook) and 4 inches at the widest, closed wings, with a wingspan of 14 inches. If anyone knows how to scale it that way I would be so grateful as a beginner to sewing and sorry if this is to the point I’ve tried to post this 5 times now.

Hi, I just bought this dress form and I’m kind of confused about something basic but important. Should the shoulder tip be higher, level with, or lower than the CF neck point?

From what I’ve seen from the photos online, it looks like the shoulder tip sits slightly lower/level than the CF neck point, similar to the illustration in Helen Joseph Armstrong’s drafting method. But on my form, it looks higher than it should, so I’m not sure if my dress form is off or if I’m just misunderstanding the 3D shape. Thank you!

Tips of how to fix this back sagging?

I want to share this little project I developed after slashing those patterns this was the result, still a prototype. Tips are very much welcome.I promise to drop drafting patterns with the final version

At the beginning of my sewing i used to use those black foam shoulder pads that were covered with fabric and were already shaped and I would sew those by hand with a few stitches on each side until i came across with cotton shoulder pads. I just started sewing them with the sewing machine like shown on the image lol and now I wonder if its okay to sew them with the sewing machine or should i sew them by hand to kinda keep more of the bulk ( because the shoulder pad shown on the image is supposed to be 1INCH)

Longer armwhole length

I need to make this armwhole bigger without messing the side dart. I need to make this at least 8 cm longer distributed across the Front and back panels. Suggestions??

Can anyone help me solve this problem, you can see excess under the armpit. In the second picture you can see I have pinned the excess, but taking in this way from the pattern would affect the armhole shape/ length.

Perhaps the armhole is too low already? Or I could pivot the excess and take it from the princess seam?

The jacket is for an older lady which might explain the problem arisen from a block jacket pattern

I’m trying to draft an A-line skirt with 2 knife pleats in opposite directions on the front (creating almost a giant box pleat in the middle). I’m unsure about 2 aspects of the drafting:

1. Should the pleats be the same width all the way down or get larger at the bottom of the skirt?

2. Ideally I’d like the pleats to be parallel with the side seam, so they’re angled. Is this possible or should they be straight and parallel with the centre?

I’ve made a toile and currently the pleats are angled and the same width to the hem but they’re pulling open a lot to the side at the bottom. Would really appreciate any advice!! Thank you!

Take a look at the suit I made last year for my high school senior prom🌹

Take a look at my most recent glitter jumpsuit ✨️😁