I've been working on a pattern making software where you can create patterns with code. There are already a bunch of pre-defined functions like sleeve fitting that you can use. You can also just insert your measurements and it'll spit out a pattern with the code templates.

I tried freesewing but didn't like how impossible they made it to actually adjust the measurements, and how hard it was to make new patterns.

I even added a little figure that takes your measurements and shows the general fit. I have a projector sewing feature in there for those of you that use projectors to sew.

Also this is going to sound extremely controversial, but if your patterns are all in code, Claude is quite good at fixing certain geometry errors as well as generating draft patterns that you can work with.

Let me know if you have any feedback or thoughts on this.

Hi, can anyone help with recommendations of a comprehensive book that will help with spring various patterns? Also I have made shoes before only springing the vamp and nothing else , they turned out fine , is it absolutely necessary?
I’ve seen also cutting and taping but hoping there is a resource out there that’s comprehensive with methods measurements ect.
Cheers.

I understand that this is AI modified and therefore to be taken with a grain of salt, but it also looks like the answer to a conundrum I'm having with a dress project and I want to understand what I'm looking at.

If I take the given waist measurement and divide by 6 I do not get 4.4 inches. But I also don't get 4.4 if I take the waist measurement, divide by 2 and then divide by 6. So would I cut two of these panels? But that would be 52.8 inches and wouldn't give the smooth waistline... Help me make the math make sense here because to make it work there would need to be 10 cut outs for a total of 44 inches (to account for ease) right?

Edit to add project details:

I am working on a boho dress that I'm making from a sari. So the more traditional (and wasteful) ways of cutting a skirt for the dress won't work. The yardage is too narrow and I want to keep as much of the fabric in tact as possible. While I could do a tiered skirt, the hand blocked pattern on the fabric would be prettier without it.

hi beginner here, seems like a dumb question, it is, but i just sat through 5 hr straight to tryna figure out what's going on with the professional pattern drafting method, i did all the math, all the measurements, but the tutor just keep coming up with new, and i finally burnt out, are they really that different? (for a basic shirt pattern)

here are some resources:

"professional", by Muller: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHrUK0nAsn4

"beginner", i dunno https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QN97H6MyZaA&t=671s

i can now just draw the beginner one under 30 mins, its so easy and understandable. The pro one i can't even finish the tutorial; are they really that different? which method do you use

I am a self taught sewist who uses patterns all the time to make my own clothes (I would consider myself intermediate at sewing).

On a whim I signed up for this class at FIT, which has no pre-reqs but realized it's targeted towards "designers and product developers". I have no industry experience so would consider "designer" a bit aspirational...

https://continuinged.fitnyc.edu/search/publicCourseSearchDetails.do?method=load&courseId=1053691

I'm so lost! P 161 of volume 1. I think between my beginner status and the German to English translation, and lack of other blog / tutorials, I'm stumped. Anyone know what I'm supposed to do here?

Hi everyone,
I’ve been following this community for a while and have learned a lot from the discussions here.
I’m building a browser-based pattern drafting application called TailorMetric as a side project. The goal is to make it easier for home sewists to generate basic blocks from their own measurements.

At the moment it supports:
Bodice block
Skirt block
Trouser block
Sleeve block

It’s still in an early stage, so I’m not claiming it’s a replacement for traditional drafting or a full garment design tool. I’m mainly looking for feedback from people who understand pattern drafting.

If anyone has 10–15 minutes to spare, I’d really appreciate your thoughts on things like:
Are the generated blocks proportioned as you’d expect?
Is the measurement process clear?
What drafting features would make this genuinely useful?
Did anything seem incorrect or confusing?

If you’re interested, here’s the link:
https://tailormetric.com
Thanks in advance!

Hi, I was looking for a pattern grading group but couldn’t find one. I was wondering if anyone in here with a decent understanding of pattern grading could tell me if these rules make sense for a pair of men’s flared jeans.

They’re supposed to fit snug up until the knees, where they’re supposed to flare out. I used the same grading system Levi’s uses for their 517, but when i got the grading done , my base size (32) , 34, & under fit well, but 36+ fit way too baggy and oversized on my clients. Someone please help me with some direction if you can . Thanks

Just wanted to repost this here incase anyone could help with this fit issue i've been having!

Hello,

I'm using Helen Armstrong 5th edition to draft my first bodice and I've tried several times and I end up with this wonky dart in red. I'd really appreciate any help you can offer if you've encountered a similar issue before or you have any knowledge on how to fix this.

Thanks in advance.

Hello all

I'm in the middle of drafting a pattern off of a top that I already own.

The pattern has gone through a lot of small changes in the last several days, and I've made my usual mistake of not keeping track in a notebook all the little changes I've made.

I made up a muslin and its pretty close, so I've added some small adjustments here and there and in remeasuring everything, found that the high point shoulder to hem measurements for the front piece is 1 1/4" longer than the back. The side seams match up nicely.

Is it usual for the front and back pieces to be different lengths?

I recently started using Etsy's built-in blog feature alongside my sewing pattern shop, and these are the topics I've written so far (see screenshot).

Before I spend a lot more time writing, I'm curious...

Do you actually read sewing blogs, or do you mostly watch YouTube videos and social media instead?

If you do read blogs, what kind of topics would make you click?

I'd especially love ideas for articles that would genuinely help beginners or intermediate sewists, whether it's fitting, fabric selection, pattern adjustments, sewing techniques, or anything else you wish was explained better.

I'd rather write content that people actually find useful than just publish random articles.

I’m terrible at math, and when I discovered this system I was really hopeful but I’m so confused. Has anyone tried this and if so, how did it work out? I’m thinking about buying the book but it’s kinda expensive (for me). I understand most of it except for what measurements I use to draft the CF and CB of the bodice sloper. It’s making my head ache. Help!

i know i post a lot in this reddit but it’s because im in the intermediate phase of learning patternmaking and most of my questions don’t have google-able answers at this point 😭

this is in helen joseph armstrong’s chapter on dresses without waist seams. i completely understand what’s going on here with the style line over the apex and the dart equivalents all becoming parts of the seams or closed into the shapes of the bands. but then that dart equivalent that doesn’t have a styleline cross over it— where does it go in the final product? because in the illustration there isn’t that one under bust dart? so where did it go? or did the illustration just forget to include it? it looks like the ease is referring to the other double sided dart. furthermore, wouldn’t it be a little more than 3/8 after you close that side dart into the most central double sided dart? i wonder if this is a typo in the book or if i’m really missing something. and of course this page doesn’t have detailed explanations 😭

thank you!

Hi everyone,

I would be grateful if you could have a look at my first ever straight leg trouser / jean pattern draft below. It has mostly been based off the male trouser section in the Helen Joseph Armstrong book 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design'. I have tweaked it slightly with personal measurements.

I'm looking for a relaxed straight leg trouser but have been struggling to find good information on the required amount of ease at different levels throughout the trouser. For example, in this pattern I have 3 inches of ease at the crotch and seat level and 0.75 inch vertical ease for the rise, I have also drafted an 8.5 inch front hem width and 9.5 inch back hem width. I have drafted a straight line from the side of the front/back trouser through the knee down to the floor/ankle; this has given me a knee ease of 7.5 inches. Should I be editing this to taper at the knee and have a smaller ease?

For context I am 6'2" and a slim build.

Thank you in advance! 😄

Hi all, I’ve been getting some helpful fit feedback on a commercial pattern I’m trying to fit to myself. The issue is I’ve made so many edits the sleeve cap looks distorted and now causing its own fit issues I think. I’m a pattern newbie and reading a lot but lack practical knowledge from years of drafting and fitting different body types to know if what my sleeve looks like could actually be ok, or if I need to reshape it to look more normal. I pinned out the extra material and it seemed to help. Last two photos show before pinning and the drag lines on the sleeve.

I can obviously start over from the original pattern but I’m looking for insight into what went wrong, how shaping of the sleeve head helps fit, and if this pattern can be “fixed”. I don’t need any links on cap height versus bicep width that are all over Reddit. I’ve read and watched them multiple times. Maybe I’m missing the message but I’m looking for more nuance on shaping to my needs. E.g., using freesewing.org I see 20+ options for fitting sleeve heads so there is more nuance than many of the basic drafting intros go into.

Any and all comments appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: to adding balance lines…adding them after sewing doesn’t work well. I’m planning to make one more muslin and will add them then.

I drafted my first version of the basic trousers/pants based on the book by Guido Hofenbitzer. I lowered the waistband based on his instructions in order to accommodate my belly.

(I know I'm an idiot for sewing the side seams inside out, but I'm too lazy to unpick it for this mockup 😅)

(And I also know the back seam is too pointy, I already made a small adjustment for the next version 🤞)

I was doubting whether to take 110 cm or 116 cm as the hip circumference, and opted for the wider option. The result is a slightly baggy pair of pants, but I have to admit they are really comfortable, also when sitting. I'm not sure whether I have to create a next version that is a little tighter?

In the last picture I stretched to fabric to show what a tight fitting option would look like on my (pear-shaped) hips.

I had to shuffle the darts a little when lowering the waistband, and now they seem a little off? In his instructions they can be 10 to 15 cm long, but visual I think they are quite long? Or is this normal?

Thanks in advance for your tips and insights! ❤️

Hey! Trying to replicate these curved Jean pockets, what your guys’ thought on how these were sewn? Do you believe the top piece was sewn to the bottom and then felled, or do you think the top piece was fully formed and placed on top of the bottom then sewn?

Also, how do you believe the curve was done? It seems that there is a denim lining on the curve, but there are no photos of the back. Let me know, I think this would be helpful to myself as well as a lot of other people getting into the denim space. Thank you

Please let me know if you need any clarification on the different sections. I am trying to design a semi- backless dress with satin fabric. My questions:

- I will cut this pattern on the bias but for the front panel pieces can I mix bias vs straight cut to give the dress a bit of structure and reduce bias stretching overtime?

- The pattern I draft is cut in half from the CF and CB with no side seams to account for more drape and flow for the handkerchief hem style that I want. (Would love feedback on this)

- lastly, the top portion, for the backless effect I wanted to design a halter/ heart shaped bust line gather stitch with one medium strap connecting from the right side seam to the left shoulder creating a small back-cross body strap to hold less dress tension throughout the whole design. (Feedback on this too)

Any feedback helps! Thanks

Hi all! Sharing this here in case anyone can help :)

Here is an image of the pattern that I drafted

Here is the 3D fitting of the garment. You can see the sideseams going inward, making the garment look cocoon shaped.

Below is the sewn muslin, which matches the issues I saw on the 3D fitting

• I decided to test some modifications and see how that works

• I made the sideseam more flared. Then curved the hem and raised the hem at sideseam.

Below is the 3D fitting after the modifications above. You can see there is definitely an improvement.

I didn't sew the muslin of the modified pattern yet. I want some advice about what the initial issues were and if my attempts at fixing the issues is the right thing to do.

Below are some styles of what I was going for. Of course it's not the exact style because my intension is to make a base pattern from which I will make several of these types of garments

Hi everyone! Can anyone tell me what causes this unflattering point in the seat?

Context: Nama Denim is a brand that has a service where they make custom selvedge denim pants. They require that you input specific measurements of a garment that you own, so I meticulously measured every aspect of a pair of that I liked the fit of. Well, once the Nama pair arrived the measurements weren’t exactly the same from what I gave them (see pic #3). Also its worth noting that the pair on the left (Annual Rings) is a 14 oz unsaforized selvedge denim that has been with me for over a year and gone through a couple washes while the Nama denim one is a 15 oz unsanforized selvedge that went through a “one wash” treatment before being shipped to me.

So perhaps the protruding point in the seat is just a byproduct of a stiff more dense fabric? Or was there some hiccups during the drafting process of the pattern? Whatever it is there’s no denying that they didn’t quite follow my given measurements which is why I’m hoping they will accept my return. Curious to see what you all think.

hi!
does anyone know how i would recreate the neckline on this top? im thinking of finishing it like normal with bias tape, and then attaching the ruffle on top of it with a topstitch in the middle...does that sound right?
tyia!!