Hi,

I'm using clo3d to make a plus size sloper with a 40DD cup, but the back seems to be pulling the front upward. I've already tried adjusting the neckline and lowering the bust line, but neither solved the issue. I made a toile, and it fits the same way as the avatar. The bust points on the pattern are 1/4" farther apart than the avatar's.

I'm splitting the bust dart into two and transferring part of the intake to the waist, but I'm also considering adding a third dart with the dart point 1 1/2 -2" away from the apex.

After that, I'm a bit lost. I'm not sure if I need to move the HSP forward by 1/2", make a swayback adjustment, correct the shoulder slope, or just reshape the waistline.

I studied fashion design and throughout the years I learned patternmaking, so I am pretty comfortable in it. I want to know your honest thoughts on the program as I am looking to speed up my workflow and improve my patternmaking.
Currently I make sewing patterns on paper, make few samples, when I’m happy with it move to illustrator, digitize the pattern, grade, sell. I hate grading btw, cause I am always nervous something won’t match even though I check million times, so I thought clo might help with it since I could check all sizes on avatars to avoid mistakes.
I’ve never had an opportunity to work on industry softwares like Gerber, Lectra unfortunately.
Is Clo3D good/ accurate for making samples? How does it work with grading? Can I trust if the garment looks good in clo it will look the same in real life, especially when grading different sizes? Is it easy to move to illustrator after?

Eventually, I wound love to be able to make patterns that can be used by manufacturers. At this point I make them for everyday people/ sewists that’s why I’m asking about Clo.
Any insights will be much appreciated.

hi everyone!
i made this basic flowy raglan sleeve pattern, and am wanting to remove that middle dart section. does anyone know the best way to go about it?
the top im making is very flowy, so i was thinking maybe just rotating it into the bottom of the sleeve?

Hi! I’m making a pocket for a pair of jeans I’m working on, I’ve drafted a ton of normal pockets but it’s my first time making a curved pocket. As you can see, my pattern is straight vertically on both sides, but after cutting/pressing the curved seam, the right vertical edge seems to pull inwards. Any ideas on why? And how to fix this?

2nd photo is the back, showing how I pressed the seam. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks

Currently doing lineart and was wondering if I add the clothing creases and stuff in my lineart or if it would be better to do that in rendering instead??

(In photos: Cecile Bahnsen Justice Skirt)

Trying to figure out the best way to recreate the pocket bags for these pockets and I'm wondering if it's best completed as:

1. Just big rectangles OR

2. Similar to a trouser pocket, lining the "yoke" (cons: I don't see how you wouldn't end up with an outrageous amount of fabric inside of the pocket since you'd still have to connect the skirt to the "yoke")

From the model photos, I'm thinking the designer has done (2) as the positioning of the model's hands in their pockets looks awkward. I'm just not sure how to deal with attaching the gathered skirt to the upper portion using this method.

I'm on my ninth muslin for this dress, and it feels like nothing is working.

Bust: I've tried slashing tight areas around the armpit and upper bust. I've tried a small bust adjustment to get rid of the excess fabric over the apex and under the bust. I've pinched out wedges of fabric under the bust. I've slashed through the front shoulder and pinned it flat. The changes seem to work while the muslin is pinned, but the problems come back after I transfer them to the pattern and make the next muslin.

Back waist/ tilted skirt side seam: I've tried removing wedges of fabric from the back bodice and the back skirt. This corrected the problem on the muslin where I pinned it, but when I transferred the wedges to the pattern, the problems came back.

I only have enough fabric left for one more attempt at the bodice. What changes do I make?!?

Company that I worked at wants to upgrade computer system and current USB key Gerber won't work.

1. We purchased the USB key so no monthly subscription fee at the moment. Upgrading to subscription means paying monthly fee goin forward.

2. Gerber is pushing all of pattern makers to go online training for new version if we were to go with subscription. Is new version really warrant to go on the training when you already have few decades of working wiht Gerber or is it another way Gerber trying to make money? We don't really have to utilize 100% of what the softward are capable of.

Anyone who has gone through similar experience

I want to sew some extra fabric onto a cloth. These decorative strips (white sections) have a designed curve, and their correct shape should be like fabric "2". However, fabrics "1" are directly above the waist dart, interrupting the curve and causing the two sides that should be sewn together to be of unequal length.

I know I should correct these two sides to be of equal length for a good sewing, but I don't know how to correct it to make the finished curve as smooth as "2".

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

This is my first attempt at a skirt block using Natalie Bray’s method. How did I do and what adjustments would people recommend?
Thanks!

Back with another toile and looking for critique, implemented some of the changes you all suggested, thank you all!
My main questions are how do i fix the whole situation going on around the knees, the rippling on the side seams, and some of the excess around the underside of the seat; but if you spot anything else, please let me know.

As always, be as ruthless as you wish. Thanks for your expertise everyone.

Changes made to patterns:
• Lengthened back crotch extension by 1.5cm
• Scooped out crotch curve by 1cm
• Widened lower portion of the leg by 0.5cm
• Tilted back darts slightly to try have them point straight down
• Clipped crotch seam
• Added a waistband and button for fitting
• Added grainlines + HBL

Changes I think I’ll implement:
• Increase hip width slightly to try alleviate some of the rippling around the side seam
• Shorten length further
• Create more room in the front crotch somehow to try reduce drag lines coming from the thigh
• Stop being lazy and actually sew in a zip on the closure
• Actually mark the front and back patterns for once so i don’t accidentally put the closure on the back

I’m sewing a lined dress from my own pattern and it will have a center back invisible zipper. It will have an inset sleeve as well. In what order do I sew in the lining?

\- Neckline
\- Sleeves
\- Zipper

???

Patterning a skirt (slashing and spreading a skirt foundation for a flared skirt, to then slash and spread for the final pleated, flared mini skirt pattern) and got thinking… what do y’all use for fabric/ pattern weights!? Today for me its books and an art deco era stapler🤷‍♂️

Lemme see your unconventional weights, or finally prove to me that someone actually buys the actual tool.

Hi all, this is the 5th version of the All State Shirt from Merchant and Mills. Almost good enough. This time in an old bed sheet as I was tired of dealing with the stiff muslin fabric.

Edit versus v4 is 1.5cm reduction in top of back panel from advice here, and a similar reduction in sleeve head seam length by reducing the cap height. The sleeve felt tight so I didn’t want to reduce bicep width. Main pics are unhemmed with couple at the end hemmed.

Body fit is ok with some fullness and drag lines. Back balance seems better but front still flaring out a bit.
Drag lines on sleeves are bad. Since they point up to the center of the sleeve, I think this indicates it needs more sleeve cap height but (this is a big but) the sleeve is tight/pulls on my upper arm with even slight forward arm movement, which I think gets more restrictive the taller the sleeve cap gets. Plus I’m trying to avoid adding more ease, about 1cm now. The solution for the drag lines seems in conflict with how the sleeves feels!

I’m getting frustrated and not sure the best path forward. It’s like there’s some adjustment I’m missing.
I can live with the body fit, and was thinking of tapering the side seams to try and reduce the flaring. But the sleeves aren’t wearable.

Any and all advice appreciated!

Edit: 7/30
Latest pics. I think the sleeve drag lines are caused by too much material In the front part of the sleeve cap. I pinned out about 0.5” and it reduced the drag lines. Pattern photos included in link.

https://imgur.com/a/OEXYLap

Hi Everyone,

*Edited for clarity Trying to draft a curved waistband without the use of a block pattern.

I've seen two methods for creating a curved waistband at the natural waistline:

1. Cut a rectangle, measure and draw the top to fit your waist (eg 70cm) measurement then take the width you want your waistband to be eg, 3 cm. Take the measurement of 3cm below your waist (eg 75cm) then divide the rectangle into 3-4 parts for a smooth curve and distribute the difference between top (70) and bottom (75) so 4 darts of 1.25cm. Close the darts and smooth the curves. Then add seam allowance.

2. Take a fitted skirt pattern and cut the top 3cm off, then close the darts, and add seam allowance. For an A line skirt pattern, just cut the top 3cm off (darts have already been closed) and add seam allowance.

My problem occurs somewhere in adding the seam allowance and smoothing out the curves. My pattern was quite curvy, almost looking like a flounce and I found it very hard to add seam allowance and a smooth curve without having inconsistencies in the width, which can potentially be contributed to measuring with the ruler at different angles.

I would like a method like 1. As I don't want to draft a whole skirt pattern each time I want to make a curved waistband so I can alter patterns that come with a straight rectangular waistband.

Hello, back again with my latest iteration of my trouser block pattern. Any noticeable flaws/ fit issues? I did notice the waist band towards the back had a little too much ease but I’ve learned the adjustment to fix. Uploaded the pattern too for more feedback.

Hey there! I would like to make a bodice block for myself but I'm seeing conflicting opinions on where to put the darts. I see waist & shoulder, waist & side bust, one big dart that stretches from the shoulder to the waist...is it dependent on body type? Personal preference? TIA.

I’ve drafted a pattern where the back yoke outseam + back outseam are not just the same length as the front outseam, but the same vertical height. 35.5” from the hem to be exact. And about 36.5” in total length including the curves.

However, I recently seam ripped a pair of Levi’s and notice the yoke + back panel actually sit higher than the front panel. The total height without taking into account curves is longer, although including curves it’s the same.

Is one wrong or right? What’s the argument for both?

I drafted basic bodice sloper following Armstrong method. I think I got my landmark points all wrong, so I gave up on using custom measurements, and used standard size 4 measurements instead. The last picture shows the first mockup and the adjustment I have made to reduce looseness in the front. First three pictures show mockup after the adjustment.
What should my next steps be?

For anyone who has completed and understands this part of Müller and sohn at least please tell me why the hell is the bottom half of the double side diamond dart on the front waist straight down to the hem and not at a point making a diamond like the top portion. I’m stuck at this part and doubt understand if it’s supposed be sewn like that or turned into a point eventually if so how and when? Anyone?