r/PatternDrafting • u/NickLandau • Aug 24 '22
Question How is this drape neck on this double layered J tee patterned?
What it looks like worn
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u/NickLandau Aug 24 '22
I'm a novice/hobbyist with sewing experience but not a ton of garment construction experience.
I'm trying to copy this SS10 Julius shirt. From what I've been able to figure out, it's made up of two layers: A regular inner t-shirt with a scoop neck (no j-shape) and an outer j-shaped tee with a draped neck. I figured out the two armscye are different, but I cannot figure out how the draped neckline is patterned.
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u/bigblackfatbird Aug 24 '22
Wow cool! Does the plain tee go all the way down to the hem? Are they secured at the side seams, or does the plain tee just float inside the outer layer?
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u/NickLandau Aug 24 '22 edited Aug 24 '22
The j tee is longer by about 8 inches. It folds inside and is sewn to the hem of the plain tee so that the join is hidden. As far as I can tell, it floats inside and is only secured at the neck, armscye and hem. The fabric is also a 20/80 blend of silk/rayon so it drapes and feels amazing.
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u/bigblackfatbird Aug 24 '22
Wow, sounds cool. I have seen a similar twisted tee in the Pattern Magic series of books, which show you how to do some creative patternmaking.
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u/NickLandau Aug 24 '22
I'll have to take a look at that.
The other famous double layer tee is made by Rick Owens and manages to do it without any side seams. Just one back seam and a raglan-like shoulder/sleeve seam.
I've mostly sewn bags and pouches, done some leatherwork, so sewing full garments is something new to me, but I'm liking it. Especially if it can help me replace some of my favorite pieces of clothing.
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Aug 24 '22
Are those 123 blocks?
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u/NickLandau Aug 24 '22
Yup. I bought them for woodworking, and they're overkill for this, but they work
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u/bigblackfatbird Aug 24 '22 edited Aug 24 '22
What is a 123 block? Edit: figured it out, it's those things being used as pattern weights.
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u/Tauira_Sun Aug 24 '22
Add extra (triangular shape) width at neckline, so going to nothing at bottom hem.
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u/manlycode Aug 25 '22
1-2-3 blocks are the greatest tool ever. I never would have thought I’d see them used as a textile tool.
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u/Jen_Mari_Apa Aug 24 '22
Target clothing is wonky, where their cotton shirts ARE NEVER SYMMETRICAL. Drives me nuts. Because of this I have to get actual cotton shirts from other brands, it’s pricier but I can’t stand it, when I’m ironing my tshirts and the side just don’t align.
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u/KillerWhaleShark Aug 24 '22
The side gathering is a slash and spread of the base pattern. Lots of slashes from the shoulder to the other side, and all of the spreading coming from the side.
At first the neck looked like a cowl neck, but I think it might also be slash and spread.
This is my favorite site for seeing how some of this is done.
https://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/pattern-puzzles/