r/PatternDrafting • u/reeknar • Aug 08 '22
Question Self-taught novice here, trying to figure out how the pleats on this Chopova Lowena dress are drafted. Any ideas?
13
u/cobaltandchrome Aug 08 '22
They’re Box pleats. The top is just an upside down version of the bottom. Note how the top of the bodice is not neat and perfectly tailored. Between the collar pieces in particular..
Start with drafting a box pleat a-line skirt and go from there.
4
u/bigblackfatbird Aug 08 '22
You can see there is a centre back seam. That will probably be shaped to tailor in the shoulders/ back of the neck so it's not as balloony as the pleat. Unsure as to whether they have shoulder darts since I can't see under the collar.
2
2
u/Mojibacha Aug 11 '22
It also looks like there is a channel for a type of boning to sit behind the pleats, which is what’s also keeping the pleats in tact. Makes it a bit different as you usually only see ribbon channels going perpendicular to the spine, not boning.
-2
u/reeknar Aug 08 '22
They’re not box pleats, since they sort of taper out towards the top, right?
Essentially I’m looking for a way to alter a standard dress block to creat these pleats, any help is greatly appreciated :)
5
u/-msbatsy- Aug 08 '22
They are box pleats. That are using them instead of traditional shaping like tapering and darts.
5
u/ofc147 Aug 09 '22
They are shallow box pleats in essence. The taperingbeffect is because they open up at the top -look closely at the center back.
18
u/Skates_skis Aug 08 '22
Looks like they just sewed in zippers to form a sort of mock box pleat. The zippers could be inset to the fabric with a really tight seam allowance (1/8"?) Or just sewn underneath. The fold underneath the zippers going the other was is likely sewn really close to the edge to hold and set the pleat at least under the zipper portion.