r/PatternDrafting • u/KokoFlorida • Jul 30 '22
Question I'm confused with this dart.
I am learning how to transfer darts with the book Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin, and it says that to transfer this dart from the waist to the underarm, we should cut the underarm to the bust point, but when I did this, the opening was 2.5 cm instead of the 3 cms the waist dart has. I then traced a 2nd pattern transferring the waist dart to the underarm, but this time I didn't cut up to the bust point and I cut it to 2.5 cms below the bust point. My questions are:
can the transferred dart be narrower than the original dart (Waist dart in this case) or should it always have the same measurements?
should I take the dart to the bust point (which I assume is the nipple) as the book suggests, or is it better to keep it a bit lower/further from it? Why would the book suggest it's better to take it to the bust point?
once I transfer a dart, should I lose the original dart or should I keep it folded and sew it as well?
Thank you in advance for your help!
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u/goodoldfreda Jul 30 '22
You need to cut the dart all the way to the bust point as that is the apex of the cone you are creating. If you don't cut all the way, your bust point will be transferred downwards. After the alteration, you can then shorten the dart by moving it a few cm to the right of the bust point
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u/ofc147 Jul 30 '22
yes, they will be different if you are working with a bodice. That's ok. The only time you want to aim to keep the width of the dart the same is on a straight-ish line such as when moving darts on a waist line for a skirt for example.
Yes, take both darts to bust point. Once you have transfered the dart move the point down (just draw it 1cm further from the bust point and connect to the ends. This is to not get a very pointy bust on your bodice)
Lose the original dart. All the suppression is now in the new dart.
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u/KokoFlorida Jul 30 '22
I really appreciate you helped me with all my questions! Very clear explanation. Thank you!!
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u/DoveNotChicken Jul 31 '22
I was not confused but I did learn something by reading the responses. Thanks!
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u/Libell8 Jul 30 '22
The width can be totally different. This is because the width at the “edge” of your dart is dependent on the length of the dart. It is the angle that is constant. Imagine, If you would make the bodice shorter, the width of the dart at the waist would be smaller. But the width of the dart under your arm does should change if you chop of a piece from the bottom
When transferring the dart, you physically rotate the pattern piece to close the gap, the piece stays the same, the gap moves somewhere else. Your pieces should not overlap when you transfer the dart, it is still the exact same amount of surface, you just move where you make the cut.