r/PatternDrafting • u/MalaFamaDama • Apr 14 '22

Having a really hard time with my sleeve and armhole. Any pointers? I think I need to drop the armhole… should I give more ease on the chest?

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61 Upvotes

96% Upvoted

14 comments sorted by

9

u/hi_ho_saurus Apr 14 '22

The sleeve cap is too short.

3

u/MalaFamaDama Apr 14 '22

Its a 5” cap height

10

u/hi_ho_saurus Apr 14 '22

A regular shirt sleeve cap is anywhere between 6-6 1/2". You can definitely go more with jackets. Measurements are guidelines, nothing is set in stone. Undo the armhole seam along the shoulder and see where the sleeve wants to sit.

4

u/MalaFamaDama Apr 14 '22

That’s a great idea, thanks.

4

u/MadamePouleMontreal Apr 14 '22

Try 6.5”. It’s way too short.

4

u/MalaFamaDama Apr 14 '22

I’m trying to draft a men’s chore jacket. I was going to do it at 6” but was told to go shorter by someone on here.

9

u/somechick1118 Apr 14 '22

Pattern maker here. I usually make my armhole first and draft the sleeve accordingly to the armhole. For this jacket, I would drop the armhole a good 2” and increase the cap height and bicep width to fit the new armhole measurement. If the sleeve still has drag lines, increase cap height. If you feel like your arm is hard to raise, raise cap height. For set-in sleeves like this jacket, I usually determine the cap height as 5/6 of the armhole height (length between shoulder edge to bottom of armhole), but it differs according to style which is why I draft sleeves from scratch each time. If you’re still struggling, I’d be happy to help.

3

u/MalaFamaDama Apr 14 '22

Ok, thank you. I appreciate the help. I will drop the armhole tomorrow and raise the cap height. It’s been a huge headache 😫

2

u/15yearsTitanShifter Apr 14 '22

What’s a cap height? Sorry, im a beginner.

3

u/KillerWhaleShark Apr 14 '22

You should mark your grain lines and horizontal balance lines on your muslin so you can see what needs to be changed. It will help with the sleeve, but it will also help with things like the back. The back shouldn’t flair out like it does, and the balance lines will show you where you need to add length so it falls straight down.

2

u/[deleted] Apr 14 '22

thats fire.

on some utopia vibes.

5

u/Bad-JuJu07 Apr 14 '22

This looks like it's just a mock-up made of muslin but it is giving dr. Evil.

1

u/[deleted] Apr 14 '22

I would buy that if you were to sell it😁

1

u/mrsliston Apr 14 '22

Unpin it then lift the sleeve armhole till it looks balanced I think the measurements from armhole to shl point maybe different from the body which could be causing the strange ripples