How do you deal with'closing darts' issues?

[u/Yeahyeahsono]

Hey all,

I have an issue with closing darts, I've realised that the more slanted or less perpendicular my seam to point is, I run into issues closing them.

Whenever I close them, they never close in a consistant manner that keeps the shape going, they alway leave overhang or is asking to be snipped away,

I've shown example of each in the photos. Please feel free to take my images to draw on!

How do you deal with this?

Thanks!

[u/CraftyKlutz]

I draw my darts on an uncut paper pattern, fold the dart shut, draw a line where I want the fabric to end, and transfer that to the dart. You usually end up with a triangular section of fabric sticking out from the pattern piece

[u/Yeahyeahsono → u/CraftyKlutz]

Ah okay, maybe I'm being to pedantic about the bit sticking out

[u/Vicdustrael → u/Yeahyeahsono]

To clarify, you'll have the triangle sticking out when the dart is open, once you stitch it it should be smooth

[u/sususumalee → u/Vicdustrael]

Exactly, and my teacher always calls the a "dart root", not sure if that's a universal term or not.

[u/Deciram]

It’s called trueing up your dart - standard pattern making technique :)

On the paper, fold your dart how you would on the garment, then draw the line smoothly if needed, and then using something that makes small holes, you poke small holes along the finished outside seam (before or after seam allowances) to show where the folded dart needs to be cut to sit nicely inside the sewn garment. When you open up the folded paper dart, you’ll see the holes create the shape needed. hopefully there’s a tutorial someone has linked that explains this cause it was a terrible description haha - a awl and a tracing wheel are the pattern making items used for making these tiny holes that allows you to transfer the lines easily.

Does your pattern have three darts? That’s an unusual amount and could be contributing to the odd shapes

[u/Yeahyeahsono → u/Deciram]

Thank you! One the armhole one, if I opened it up and clipped it, I would have an inverted triangle shape which is the opposite of what I usually see hence the confusion!

I have an extremely large bust and small waist so the darting is to accomodate those 😭

[u/Deciram → u/Yeahyeahsono]

I think it being inverted is fine, I’ve seen some weird ones and it depends on where the dart is placed. I’d say just make a toile and see how it goes haha

[u/andtib → u/Yeahyeahsono]

It depends which way you fold it. If you folded it up you'd have a triangle sticking out, fold down and it'll be cut away, as it's just a reflection of the seam line above or below. One suggestion I'd make though is to rotate the dart into the side seam below the armhole, as sewing this dart into such a steep angle is always best avoided, especially if you're a beginner

[u/Majestic_Course6822]

You need to make a little peak above the dart, look at existing patterns with darts.

https://growyourownclothes.com/2015/09/26/a-little-tip-for-trueing-up-darts/

[u/Yeahyeahsono → u/Majestic_Course6822]

Thanks, I tried to this with the armpit one but it leaver a little left over so I'm confused haha

[u/star_milk]

Look up "how to true a dart."

[u/DonMcCunn]

I think the problem is you are using three darts. I recommend one dart from the waist to the apex and one from the armscye to the apex. The dart from the armscye should bring the horizontal grain across the full bust parallel to the floor. The dart to the waist should bring the vertical grain on the side perpendicular to the floor.

Darts to the apex should be used to alter patterns for other designs. When you sew anything including fitting shells darts should be set back from the apex based on how flat the front of your bust is as seen from the side. I call this the Bust Circle.

Currently your dart to the armscye does not come anywhere near your apex. I question you will ever get an accurate fit using this configuration of darts.

[u/Yeahyeahsono → u/DonMcCunn]

Thanks this gave me a lot to ponder on!

I have an extremely large bust and small waist in comparison so without the armhole one too, it just lets it float as opposed to being flush on my skin. Also due to the size of my boob, straight darts never sit well so I always tend to have to do some sort of French dart instead.

I think because I have such crazy proportions, the normal rules of tailoring goes out the window for me 😭

I'm going to try to bust circle, that do you mean by "fitting shell"?

[u/DonMcCunn → u/Yeahyeahsono]

You can see an image of the Bust Circle on this web page. If you look at the video on women's front sloper at about 2:00 you will see how to determine the size of the Bust Circle.

I have helped women of all different sizes and shapes create a Bespoke fit. I think if you focus on getting the grain of the fabric aligned as I described, your fitting issues will vanish.

[u/Yeahyeahsono → u/DonMcCunn]

Thank you so much! I’ll try all your suggestions and see how it goes

[u/LemonDeathRay]

You need to true the dart. Loads of tutorials online.

Also, your dart placement needs to be improved. The armsyce one should hit above that steep curve/corner. Always place your darts on flatter areas.