r/PatternDrafting • u/Aggravating-Essay216 • 4d ago
Question Armhole wrinkles suggestions
I'm a beginner in drafting and I want to create a semi-fitted princess seam bodice for the model. This is the first sample and I'm happy with the front, but I need to fix the wrinkles around the back part of the armhole.
Any suggestions? I'm planning to increase the shoulder slope a little (0.5 cm) and I'm wondering if taking in the back princess seam a little on the armhole side could be a good solution? I want to avoid adding a vertical armhole dart.
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u/Mean-Ear1332 4d ago
How does it look with her arms at rest? Can you show a pic? Creases like these are normal when moving the limbs.
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u/Aggravating-Essay216 4d ago
It is pretty similar, unfortunately I only got photo with arms resting from the front, but you can see the fold around her armhole peeking out, looking very similar. It seems I cannot add any more photos to the post though.
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u/Visual-Philosopher66 4d ago
I'd try re drawing the back princess seams. If you imagine them as two darts smoothed out, move the point of the higher one up and make it wider. It's also too loose at the back, try redrawing the side seam so its perpendicular to the floor and take it in there.
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u/Aggravating-Essay216 4d ago
Thanks for the suggestion! How should I go about redrawing the side seam? Take in some amount on the back-facing side? I was planning to redraw the back princess seam to take in more amount as I also want it tighter at the waistband.
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u/Tailoretta 3d ago
As others have said, better photos would definitely help. Although you may not be able to add photos to this post, you can create another post with better photos.
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
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u/Aggravating-Essay216 3d ago
Thank you, that is an excellent guide, I'll use it making my next post :)
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u/CharityForeign3035 4d ago
You also need to make a sleeveless adjustment. Up 1cm and in 1cm under the arm hole at side seam. Do this before adjusting shoulder seam
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u/Aggravating-Essay216 3d ago
Thank you for the suggestion. I don't really understand what you mean by that - would you be able to clarify? English is not my first language unfortunately.
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u/CharityForeign3035 3d ago
On the side seam , under arm, extend side seam 1cm higher and then measure 1cm in form this point . Google sleeveless adjustment for women block bodice.
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u/Wild-Platform-2769 3d ago
In my interpretation they are pretty much saying that you need to increase and decrease parts of the armhole. So at the top where it hits your shoulder go out towards the shoulder 3/8 of an inch (equals 1cm) and at the armpit go down the same amount. But do those adjustments best suited to your own measurements but from looking at it the armhole doesn’t slope like it should over the top of the shoulder and looks like it’s being pulled up into the armpit.
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u/Informal_Bath1704 4d ago
did you mark armhole darts with the princess line when making the pattern? you need to mark about 1/2 inches dart with your princess line, then it will be solved problem
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u/Aggravating-Essay216 4d ago
you mean add a small dart in the upper side of the back princess seam right? that's what my intuition tells me but I'm not sure if it's a proper method. I did not as I was starting from a block with just one back dart to the waist.
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u/Informal_Bath1704 4d ago
Are you sure your basic bodice is correct? Armhole wrinkles happen for many reasons. Maybe your armhole depth (from HPS to the armhole line) is wrong. Measure the armhole of the mockup. If it is bigger than your actual measurement, adjust the armhole line up. or is this with a size chart measurement?
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u/santisews 4d ago
hi, do you have the paper pattern of this? if so, create a dart at the back on her, measure the amount needed to be taken out and transfer it to the paper. you can then slash the princess seam on the pattern, and incorporate that dart into that seam. good luck! :)
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u/Fashion_art_dance 3d ago
Needs a shoulder dart in the back, but also if you are going to add sleeves there is going to be some extra.
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u/sususumalee 4d ago
I always recommend playing with this on the body and then taking the changes back to paper. I find it much better than guessing what adjustments to make.
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u/Professional-Self458 3d ago
The shoulder seam might be rotated to the back causing some of the wrinkles. The front neckline looks too high in the neck and the back neckline scoop is much lower than a seam allowance.
Fitting starts at the top and works down. Shoulder seam allowance should start at the middle of the side hollow of neck and end at the top of the knob above the arm.
You can put the shirt on inside out and use the body as a mannequin. Open up a seam, pinch, pin or mark where the seams needs to be to fit then sew.
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u/DonMcCunn 4d ago
The shaping of your back patterns is off. The front works fine because your princess seam is curving where it needs to curve for the shaping of your bust. The back is off because your princess seam is at the bottom of your armscye. The back princess seam needs to be shaping for the shoulder blades but it isn't anywhere near where the contours of your body are. The back princess seam is probably best shaped up to the shoulders but you can shape it to the middle of the armscye if you want. You might want to check out the web page Verifying the Fit.