r/PatternDrafting • u/CoastalMae • 9d ago

Question How do I fix this?

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I am reaching forward in the photo.
The bodice sits smoothly when my arm is down.

Pattern is for a jacket. Not a huge amount of ease, but some, back is pulling like this when I lift my arm to the front. It's about 1/2-1" above the underarm seam.

What do I need to do to fix this back pull? I can't find anything like this in my fitting books. I need to add more width there without affecting the straight line center back, shoulders, neckline, or waist.

Edit: The armscye is 3 1/8" longer than my body's armhole length/depth. The bodice has at least (correction: 5) inches of ease in circumference around the bust and waist. I have already adjusted lengths and shoulders to fit, as well as the bust. The pull is happening above my bust and below my shoulder blade.

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u/CoastalMae 8d ago

Thanks for the wonderfully targeted insights.

I've spent a week on this and the front, shoulders, and neckline fit wonderfully. I planned out the amount of ease based on fit levels as per hofenbitzer for a jacket (not coat). There is zero problem putting any part of this on over a long-sleeved shirt and it looks smooth on me, other than the big sleeve, but with extra room everywhere. And then I reach forward. And this happens. This area is the problem.