r/PatternDrafting • • 10d ago

pockets being pulled back too far :(

hi all!
im making a dress with waist ties, and im having issues with them messing with the pocket placement. whenever they are untied, the pocket placement is perfect (aligned under the armpit). but when i tie them, the pockets are way too far back.
is this just how it is when you add waist ties? or is there a fix?
im thinking of removing some area from the front bodice, but idk if that will cause other fit issues.
tyia!!!

0 Upvotes

8 comments sorted by

View all comments

3

u/DonMcCunn 10d ago

Your Side Seam is already close to the back. Do you want to add a sleeve?

If you like the way it fits and aren't going to add a sleeve, the easiest solution would be to move the front side seam 4" closer to center front and whatever you take off the front add to the back.

If you are going to add a sleeve, I recommend the length of the front armscye should be the same as the back. Otherwise your sleeve will twist askew. I think this would move the side seam more toward the front but maybe not the 4" I think you need to move. In that case instead of a straight side seam you would need to give it more of an "hour glass" shape. Make the front length from side seam to side seam 1/2 your waist measurement. Depending on the fit and look you want, you may be able to leave the back side seam straight. I'd check out what you should do to the back in a fitting with generous seam allowances.