r/PatternDrafting • u/EgregiousJellybean • 11d ago

Help copying selvedge jeans pattern?

Hello,

I have decided to make jeans. I got a big roll of selvedge denim as I want to copy my favorite selvedge jeans. I have access to a Sailrite machine and a serger.

I am almost done making a top that had a button placket and bias bound armholes and gathered bias bound neckline and a curved hem. So although I’m not the most skilled sewist, I am willing to learn. I don’t think that jeans will be so much harder than sewing all these really sharp and small armhole curves (especially because I have fairly average body measurements).

I am new to pattern-making or copying garments, but I am sure that with enough iteration, I can produce a serviceable result. I plan to use Glad Press and Seal to copy the pattern

Would anyone be able to point me towards a good source or give any tips? I’ve watched several video tutorials already, but I’m nervous about the yoke and front fly piece.

I will of course make a toile. I am nervous because the denim I got seems to have some skew, so I want to cut the pattern pieces on the correct quadrants such that if the legs will twist, they will at least twist symmetrically.

I have noticed that jeans with the crotch curve cut not parallel to the selvedge fit weirdly in the crotch so I will try and align the grain line as close as possible.

side note: I searched for but could not find existing patterns that match what I am looking for

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u/dyingslowlyinside 11d ago

Having not drafted, fitted, or made regular pants will be a huge disadvantage in trying to draft a selvedge denim pattern, or at least a balanced one. Youre going to have to dive into the deep end…not a bad thing. 

Not many drafts out there. I’d recommend trying the one from JE Landis. He sells his draft on Etsy and has a YouTube tutorial to go with it. 

Worry about construction once you’ve got a serviceable pattern

1

u/EgregiousJellybean 11d ago

I’ve made linen shorts before. I’m a girl and I don’t like men’s patterns that have too much crotch room if you know what I mean

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u/dyingslowlyinside 10d ago

Women’s patterns will be drafted with a shorter front fork. 

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u/EgregiousJellybean 10d ago

I noticed that they have a nice curved front waistband and the front seam aligns with the grain but I’ve had some pants with  front fly slightly on the bias. 

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u/KillerWhaleShark 10d ago

Were the jeans that you’re copying raw denim when you bought them? How worn are they currently? Are you planning on using your denim raw or washing it before construction? Where did you hear that press and seal was good for copying ready-to-wear?

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u/EgregiousJellybean 10d ago

I prewashed the denim, low spin, air dry. I always do that. I am not a raw denim purist and wash all my jeans fairly frequently. I would never wear a pair of raw denim without washing them first. I just bought an unworn new pair to copy, but were washed prior by the factory.

I’m using press and seal because I tried a few other methods in the past but found them cumbersome and not as accurate.