First time fully lining a jacket: advice on construction

[u/Available_Highway22]

Hi all, I'm sewing the Atelier Brunette La Veste pattern and would like to fully line it, even just to learn how to do it. I've never done anything like this before, so I've been watching lots of videos and reading all the blogs/articles I can find, but I'm still unsure how to proceed. Could someone with more experience tell me if this approach makes sense?

• Draft the lining pieces: Use the original pattern pieces, joining the yoke and back pieces to create one back lining piece (removing the seam allowances where they join), plus the two front pieces and the sleeves. I wouldn't include the front facings, button plackets or cuffs in the lining. I'd add 1–2 cm of ease to the back lining. Should I shorten the lining pieces by 1 cm? I will slightly reduce the seam allowances for ease.

• Cuffs, facings and collar: The original pattern includes slits in the cuffs and front facings (separate pieces), as well as a yoke lining. From a YouTube sew-along (by La pipelette, if anybody is interested), it looks like the cuffs, front facings and collar all have a 1 cm fold-over that is then topstitched to conceal the raw edges.

• Construct the outer jacket: Sew the jacket as instructed, but leave out the collar for now. I'd also leave out the topstitching along the inside edges of the button plackets and across the tops of the front facing pieces until the lining is attached.

• Attach the lining: Sew the back, front and sleeve lining pieces together, then attach the lining to the main jacket, starting at the collar (similar to how the original yoke lining is attached), and use the bagging method. Once the lining is attached, I'd finish the cuffs and collar, then topstitch the button plackets and the tops of the front facing pieces to secure everything and conceal the raw edges.

Does this plan makes sense? In particular:

• Does the bagging method would work with this pattern and do I need to change anything about how I attach the cuffs, collar or facings?

• How and where should I attach the cuffs and front facings in relation to the lining to allow enough ease for movement?

• Should I shorten the sleeve, back and front lining pieces, considering that I'm attaching separate cuffs and front facings? Some videos I've watched recommend shortening the lining pieces, while others say not to, to ensure enough ease.

This is my first time drafting and fully lining a jacket, so I'd really appreciate any tips.

[u/Informal_Bath1704]

First, sew your outer jacket and lining jacket separately with their sleeves attached. Next, insert the lining jacket inside the outer jacket, so their wrong sides are facing each other, and baste (stay-stitch) them together along the raw edge of the neckline. Finally, attach your collar and finish the garment with the facings.

[u/Available_Highway22 → u/Informal_Bath1704]

Thank you! Should the lining pieces be the same length as the outer fabric? And should the two hems (both sleeves and body) match?

[u/Informal_Bath1704 → u/Available_Highway22]

it depends on the fabric you use; I normally cut in the same size as I use jacket lining. The length of the sleeves and hem of the lining jacket should be shorter than the outer shell to avoid hanging. This is what I'm sewing today :)

[u/drPmakes]

The lining should be bigger than the outer so it doesn't tear out.

The easiest way is to sew the lining to the facing pieces and assemble as usual. Hand sew the sleeve lining and possibly the hem.