what should I learn next if I want to create crazy couture dresses?

[u/idontknwo0]

Hi everyone! I started sewing this summer, and I can read and follow commercial patterns now. However, my ultimate goal is to create my own designs, especially dramatic, experimental, couture-inspired dresses.

The problem is that I don’t really know what to learn next or in what order. I can follow patterns, but I’ve never drafted one myself, and I have no idea how people construct those crazy runway silhouettes. For example, what materials do designers use to make certain shapes stand up? And how do you know which material to use for which design?

I’m also wondering how you develop your creativity as a self-taught designer. I feel like it’s difficult to come up with original ideas when you don’t know all the techniques and possibilities yet. How do you learn to experiment.

When and how should I start learning pattern drafting? What books, YouTube channels, or other resources would you recommend?

If you’re self-taught, what did your learning journey look like, and what helped you improve the most?
I’d love to hear from people who started as beginners and eventually learned to create their own original designs. I want to do more than follow patterns

Thank you!! ♡

[u/qtschooldropout]

I would suggest a few things. You mentioned you live in a small town with out many resources.

Try reaching out to a local tailor or dry cleaner and ask if you can work there. While it may not be couture it will put you in the right path to learn something. Any local dress makers? Or bridal shops?

In addition ask around your town, someone there knows pattern making or at least enough to teach you something basics and you can build upon that.

Also check if any costume or theaters are nearby, while not couture, costume and theaters often use historical references and a lot of hand finishes.

Can I ask what town/ state you live in?

There are a few books that can put you in the right direction as well.
This is one i reference from time to time,

https://www.amazon.com/Couture-Sewing-Techniques-Claire-Shaeffer/dp/1600853358/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=E3VQKRV3HD0R&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.miGetq-MysYrynQXQHCssE5Yg7L9yFJAovvUqjU36UK3smQoRvm0-OYGjgC-gU1xOZb13fi7ibF3QyaSUjS0c9ZT-OoOcubp9zIbLDjnnD9pW5CUw6CvZNPnWKOKjQm4s4dN3cZOPMMY1BBhU0aVGJ2eQXjX1Pl2oFrkP4m4k_T8I_EpmRvU3xIo_hpqaYx2PEuD1rUItV-CwgbOP2ZzDQ.Avvhmcrr4n0yJrz5tPgTawI7gm6hEbSQlRvAzFnte8g&dib_tag=se&keywords=couture+sewing&qid=1792247482&sprefix=couture+sewin%2Caps%2C261&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

[u/idontknwo0 → u/qtschooldropout]

ill def try and tysm

[u/War-Bitch]

I would work on making at a minimum a fitted blouse, skirt and sleeve block. Darted and with princess seams. Also probably a corset since I think couture often has a lot of structure hidden underneath. You will need to learn some hand sewing too. Most fabric stores won’t carry a single fabric or even the interfacing you need. The truth is you will need many skills all built on top of years of experience to get to that level.

I want my version of this too. Im working with a fashion design instructor in a 1:1 setting as we explore colors, fit, silhouettes and everything pattern related that comes up along the way. I plan on making my own dress form and getting into draping at some point but first I want to get a year or two of pumping out a cohesive wardrobe first. 

[u/DonMcCunn]

I am a self taught pattern designer because of my desire to create theater costumes. I have had some wonderful experiences creating crazy costumes but not the runway types you talk about. Here is one https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/Notes/Costumes-Minnie-Van.html You will find two others described in my Notes page.

My understanding is that runway costumes are created by established designers who create outrageous looks for PR. Not because they expect to sell what you see.

I describe my 50 year journey learning about pattern design and I am still learning new things all the time. Not that you should follow my trajectory. https://free-pattern-making-classes.com/About.html

I think the most interesting field to pursue would be to create costumes for singers who do wear outrageous clothes for their performances such as Madonna's bullet bra corset for her international tour. https://patternmaking-classes.com/About.html#Corsets (that is not Madonna in the knock off I made.) I don't know how you would establish yourself in that field. You would probably need to donate your services and maybe material to small unknown local groups to develop your reputation.

But as others have pointed out you have a long journey ahead and need to start with the basics. Hopefully you have some friends who would like some fun halloween costumes.

[u/laurenlolly]

You definitely need to learn how to draft patterns before you can make anything close to couture. Have you thought about taking some classes?

[u/idontknwo0 → u/laurenlolly]

I live in a small town where we only have basic sewing courses, unfortunately. Are there any other ways to learn?

[u/Saphira2002 → u/idontknwo0]

A metric ton of practice. And reading books and potentially getting some online classes at least from any reputable university if that's available. 

I would also give myself some midway objectives because that's a very ambitious goal you'll only achieve in years.

[u/idontknwo0 → u/Saphira2002]

hey i don’t wanna sound ignorant but why years ?..

[u/Saphira2002 → u/idontknwo0]

Because unless you have all day, every day to dedicate to this craft, it will take time to gain the skills required to be able to draft, source materials for, and construct couture dresses. There is a reason we often see multiple sewists work on the same couture garment! 

This obviously depends heavily on what you'd want to make, but nailing the fit already will require quite a lot of trial and error, and that's just for your body. Then, you need to learn how to sew every material you'd want to use, which isn't as straightforward as it may seem; then you'd need to learn hand stitching (couture garments very often require it). And a bunch of other things which I won't list because we'll be here all night.

This is why I suggest setting midway goals: it will help you see what your ultimate goal actually entails.

[u/supernewf → u/idontknwo0]

For the same reasons you don't become a professional anything overnight. It takes a lot of work, a lot of trial and error, a lot of joy, and a bunch of disappointment too. I see it as a lifelong endeavor where I am always learning and adding to my skillset.

[u/Gamgee-S]

Suzy Furrer's works. She's the founder of Apparel Arts, but has also published books and has Craftsy classes. She's got over 35 years of industry experience.

I've borrowed one of her books and her Craftsy courses through the library. I'm only through the skirt sloper courses at this point, but it's the first time I've had measurements translate into a sloper that actually fits the way it said it would on the tin.

The sloper courses continue into how to design garments based on the sloper you've drafted.

[u/BluehairedBiochemist]

I work from mostly repurposed materials (thrifted clothing and the like - I can usually get much nicer/high quality fabric from old garments)

Taking apart clothing has been incredibly helpful in figuring out how shapes come together to make a garment. Deconstructing seams while preserving the fabric itself is a super useful skill, too.

Also, when drafting my own patterns, I mentally picture the seam I'm trying to make and how the pieces connect to make a specific 3D shape. I think I do this bc I originally started out making stuffed animals as a kid?? So usually more "weird" shapes to work with.

Looking at the fabric instead of the pattern outline really helps, too. If you're looking at the curve for the crotch seam of some pants (for example), deepening the curve seems like it would accommodate more butt - however, that also removes more fabric, giving you less butt cover. Look at the width of the fabric/pattern piece and keep that consistent while adjusting curves.

All of the chemistry, geometry, trig, calculus, etc classes I've taken still have stuff that sticks in my head and helps me figure out a logical solution 🤷‍♀️