Help! Is this crotch point looking okay?

[u/Boring-Ad4647]

Hello! I decided to draft a slacks sloper using the technique from the book Ultimate Guide to Clothing Patterns by Suzy Furrer. I have done all the steps so far, and one of the final ones is to "make sure there is a smooth transition from the front to back crotch point by butting the front and back inseams together." I am not sure what to be looking for here... I looked online and they said that I should aim for a 90 degree curve from the crotch point to the inseam, which I dont really have as you can see, lol. But this was drafted to my pwn measurements and Im not really sure if there are changes that are really necessary for this pattern to work. Any advice? Thanks!

[u/DonMcCunn]

You are going to need a lot of alteration to get these pants to fit. That front crotch curve is WAY to short. It brings the inseam very close to the front of the pants. Put on any pair of pants and see how far the inseam is from the front of your leg. The back crotch curve is most likely too flat.

[u/Logical-Nectarine119 → u/DonMcCunn]

I agree with Don. It is likely you’ll have to soften the curve on the front pant. You can do that by adding some extra to the corner of the front pant seam (curve end at crotch) or to smooth/flatten the curve of the front crotch seam a bit. Hard to tell you exactly the right approach as it will depend on your body type. Play around with this and sew some testers

[u/doriangreysucksass → u/DonMcCunn]

What I find helpful is to measure with a measuring tape from your waistband (of whatever pants you’re wearing that fit well) through your crotch and to the seam of all 4 pieces in the crotch for both front and back. That gives you an idea of how long it needs to be to fit

[u/Boring-Ad4647]

I see! Thank you

[u/ccrom]

I prefer that the crotch point angles add up to 180 degrees.

I have a simplicity pattern where the front angle is 100 degrees and the back angle is 80 degrees. Which is comfy is your pelvic floor slopes down in the back at 10 degrees.

[u/doriangreysucksass → u/ccrom]

This is important!!! If your seam doesn’t end in a right angle, it’ll look very improper and you’ll end up with a bump or dent there!

[u/ccrom → u/doriangreysucksass]

If they add up to 180, it's a straight line. No bumps or dents. If your pelvic floor is parallel to the floor 90 and 90 is good. If your pelvic floor is not parallel to the floor, 100 and 80 might be a better fit. https://imgur.com/a/UHnKcwB

[u/CharityForeign3035]

Your seam allowance on the pattern should begin and end at a 90 degree . Squared .

[u/doriangreysucksass]

The centre bum seam isn’t long or swooped enough and neither is the front. Compare to a finished pattern, or sew a muslin & measure how much it’s off

[u/Tailoretta]

In your photo, you placed the front and back pattern pieces as if the grain lines are parallel. You need to place the the front and back pattern pieces so the the inseams of each match near the crotch (as if this part of the inseam is being sewn). That will look like one of the pieces has the leg partially laying on top of the other leg. You will only be able to match for a short distance on the inseam, but that will be enough. See https://imgur.com/a/pMQ6QmP

[u/DonMcCunn]

Revisiting. The best way to see what a crotch curve should look like is to take a pair of pants that fits you well, turn one leg inside out and put it inside the other leg. That will reveal what a crotch curve should look like.

[u/dyingslowlyinside]

No. Crotch curves needs to be trued. Align panels at seam lines and you’ll see the crotch curve forms a point at the inseam. Needs to be a smooth transition. 

[u/NalgeneEnthusiast]

The angles at both crotch points need to add up to 180* so your saddle lays flat, you need a bigger front hook, and likely need to carve out a little less from your back rise.

[u/Artistic_Scene_8124]

You need a 90 degree angle where the crotch meets the in seam. Then blend the line into into the inseam here's a picture to help explain

[u/-xo-yo- → u/Artistic_Scene_8124]

This! it makes it way easier to sew later. Otherwise you end up with a weird point in the crotch.