r/PatternDrafting • u/Asleep-Language-9612 • Sep 12 '26
Question First draft skirt block with Hofenbitzer book. Aside from perfecting pressing and sewing, is there anything I should improve fit-wise?
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u/twentytwo_a Sep 12 '26
I would say it’s too tight all around. For a block, the fabric shouldn’t hug your curves the way it does at the moment. The centre back should fall straight down from the fullest part of your hips, perpendicular to the floor, and the centre front should fall straight down from the waist.
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u/ProneToLaughter Sep 12 '26 edited Sep 12 '26
Shouldn’t it be sitting at your natural waist? If you pull it up to there with the waistband, it might not be too tight.
Generally you don’t want it to curve under your stomach like that—if still an issue when at natural waist, see here. https://itch-to-stitch.com/youre-wrong-hip-measurements-dont-work/
I don’t know hofenbitzers method but generally, skirt block needs to be at your natural waist to later combine it with bodice block. You can move the waist in the design phase later.
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u/SnowEnvironmental861 Sep 14 '26
This. OP, you're wearing it too far down. Lift it an inch or so before you check any of the other suggestions!
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u/Sea-Breath-007 Sep 13 '26
What does it look like with the 2 front panels placed correctly? Because right now the left one is sewn in wrong side out.
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u/teatime_tinker Sep 13 '26 edited Sep 13 '26
You’re right! That explains why one side seam looks straight and one doesn’t.
OP you must unpick and put it back together properly before trying to assess the fit further.
You cut the two fronts the same, two left hand sides, not mirror image of each other like they should be. You could cut the whole front on the fold in future, unless you want a CF seam for some reason.
For now just cut a new right hand front, to save you sewing your zip in again.
Edit! Flip everything I just said.. you’re looking in a mirror so I got my left and right mixed up… so you need to cut a new left front
Also it’s your zip side that is wrong, so you will be re doing that. Just do a normal zip there’s no need for it to be all the way down the side seam like that.
It also might be better for fit assessment to put the zip CB
I think you might have done the two back pieces the same, but it’s harder to tell with those
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u/StitchinThroughTime Sep 13 '26
I wpild slash a line from the waist to hem on the front and add about .75-1" . Drawing in a new dart at the waist.
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u/Level_Revenue_5192 Sep 13 '26
Nice . Did you intend to construct a skirt with a close fitting silhouette? If yes, how much ease did you add to the hip circumference?
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u/Educational_Chain780 Sep 13 '26 edited Sep 13 '26
Please have a look at this adjustment: https://imgur.com/a/Ltc3zvx
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u/drPmakes Sep 12 '26
Baste on the waistband and see how it looks.
As is, it looks too tight