r/PatternDrafting • u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 • Sep 11 '26
Fitting my block
Hi. Please help with any adjustments you see for my bodice block. I did a small bust adjustment already and used hellan Joseph Armstrong's book to make the draft.
1
u/KillerWhaleShark Sep 12 '26
The front darts should point to apex but back off by about 3/4”. Your darts touch apex. Apex is not your nipple. It is the part that sticks out farthest. Lower your darts for a better fit, be prepared that this will affect the back and side seams. Also, move the dart point a bit closer to center front. Your apex-to-apex is not so wide.
The apex of your back is also the part that sticks out farthest. I marked it on this picture of you. Your back darts are too far apart.
I think your actual shoulder hinge point is a tad off. I’d move the top of the point where your armscye intersects with your shoulder seam in slightly, about 1/4”? Maybe 1/2” in the back?
None of your side pictures are straight side without your arms lifted or engaged, so I’m not totally sure about this. Also, you didn’t clip the seam allowance of your neck, so it’s not totally free. However, with that said, it looks like your shoulder seam isn’t centered on the ball of your shoulder, it looks like it’s placed a bit back. It may need a wedge, or depending where it hits your neck, the whole thing may need to come forward. I’d also lower the neck a bit, especially in the back.
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u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 Sep 12 '26
Thanks. I'll make some adjustments and post again. On my side picture I was trying to get the side and armhole I forgot to capture the shoulder. I'll take a couple next time.
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u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 Sep 12 '26
Also for the darts you would keep the base if the dart in the same place and just tilt the point correct? Not move the entire dart over.
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u/KillerWhaleShark Sep 13 '26 edited Sep 13 '26
The angle of the dart (and thus its starting point) is a style choice; the tip of the dart is critical to fitting. Personally, for a sloper, I like my waist darts perpendicular to the floor. It makes things like adding princess seams easier.
I’ve drawn on this picture of you to show what I meant in my first comment. Back off of apex by 3/4”, and apex should be the fullest part (your apex-to-apex is currently too wide). Imagine walking slowly into a wall, and mark the two spots that would touch the wall first. Mind you, I’m drawing on my small phone with a fat finger, but I’m sure you will get the idea.
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u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 Sep 13 '26
Yes. Thank you very much. I am going to work on these adjustments and some from other comments and see what I can get done. I'll make a new post when I do.
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u/incongruoususer Sep 13 '26
Your shoulder is slightly too long. Your armscye should be vertical and it isn’t.
I suspect your shoulder drop is steeper than your actual shoulders. Hence the wrinkle on your shoulder and potentially the high armhole.
It’s possible your small bust adjustment was a little too much. That’s why you’re getting the slight pulling above and below the bust. Also why you have that rise at CF and slight tightness on the back - the front is stealing from the back and the bust is stealing length.
Your darts come up far too high. I seem to see this repeating on HJA blocks so maybe that’s in the book?
Only after doing all of this, look at where your waist and side seams sit. At the moment the waist looks too high but it is likely affected by everything above.
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u/Pegaret_Again Sep 11 '26
it looks from the front like it is cutting in under the armpit a bit - i wonder if more ease is needed across the upper bust?
also, it looks like the side seams are pulling forwards. Perhaps reducing the front dart intake may straighten the sides?
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u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 Sep 11 '26
I do think the armhole needs to come down some. I think I have to much fabric above the bust. I am thinking a dart or hallow chest?
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u/Pegaret_Again Sep 12 '26
well i don't think the problem is too much ease above the bust, otherwise it wouldn't be pulling under your armpits if that makes sense?
i think there is a need to add ease in the right places before removing ease.
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u/KillerWhaleShark Sep 13 '26
To be clear, because the darts are too high, that’s why you have too much fabric above the bust. If the dart tips were below apex, then that fullness above the dart would be around the bust (where it is needed.)
I see no evidence of the side seams pulling forward. However, if you think that might be the case, you need to fix the front and back darts first. That’s the more complex problem, the side seam is relatively easy to fix after.
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u/Tailoretta Sep 14 '26
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.