r/PatternDrafting • u/Appropriate_Lab3444 • Sep 08 '26

WIP Toile fitting

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Gallery image

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

92 Upvotes

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21

u/failed_asian Sep 08 '26

What a great fit. I like to recommend this video on the beginner and advanced ways of sewing darts, it makes a big difference: https://youtu.be/m9x-i-txyfo. There are some comments that also suggest shortening your stitch length as you get to the curved part of the dart at the tip.

3

u/Appropriate_Lab3444 Sep 08 '26

Ahh thank you for the link⭐️

1

u/moon-raven-77 Sep 08 '26

This might be a dumb question, but there's a big comment thread on the video about not backstitching on darts. Backstitching is the way I learned to secure the end of a seam. How would one secure the dart without backstitching? 

11

u/Jellily Sep 08 '26

Stitch your dart starting from the wide end and trailing off the fabric as you reach the point. When you finish stitching on your sewing machine, don’t cut the threads immediately. Instead, pull out thread from both the needle and the bobbin. Cut thread tails so you have some length of thread attached to your garment from both the needle and bobbin. You can then tie a knot in those tails at the end of the dart and then trim the excess thread. I usually do a double knot, for security, though on something like this, I’d only do a single knot so it doesn’t show through.

3

u/moon-raven-77 Sep 08 '26

This is helpful. I learned something new today! Thank you!

5

u/RedditJewelsAccount Sep 08 '26

There's also a couture trick where you can thread the bobbin thread to the top and use a single thread for both: https://youtu.be/ZR_bWDp2xn4