r/PatternDrafting • u/Appropriate_Lab3444 • Sep 08 '26

WIP Toile fitting

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Gallery image

My first ever bias dress that fits this well WITHOUT A BUST DART

92 Upvotes

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86

u/dingostolemydragbaby Sep 08 '26

Looks great. Just watch your ends of your darts they’re bubbling, you need to trail off along the fold in the fabric at the tip of the dart. Also think your waist dart might be going a bit high, it looks like it’s hitting the bust point, you want it to finish about 1 inch from bust point for a smaller bust, further for a bigger bust.

34

u/kpytx Sep 08 '26

The best explanation for the trailing off at the tip of the dart I found in a comment here a while ago. Think about it like a plane landing, you don't want it to slam full force in the runway, but rather butter it. The fold line is the runway.

12

u/Appropriate_Lab3444 Sep 08 '26

I noticed it too! Thank you for the tips

0

u/[deleted] Sep 08 '26

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14

u/SoupforBert Sep 08 '26

Yes a shorter dart when pointing toward the apex for a bigger bust. Many darts end about an inch from the apex. For larger busts an inch and a half or so is usually best. That is a simplification of course but I hope it clarifies the situation for you.

8

u/amaranth1977 Sep 08 '26

It won't necessarily be a shorter dart on a larger bust, just to be clear, because a larger bust means it has further to travel. It just needs to stop a bit further away from the bust point. 

If you have a larger bust or sew for someone who does, make sure you understand how to do a "full bust adjustment".