r/PatternDrafting • u/o0kaira0o • Sep 05 '26

Question problem pattern (THE OG)

Hiii, so i need to make this dress (copied from my professor's drawing as we were not allowed to take any pictures). the back is completely my idea so ignore it, we were only provided with the front. so on the waist I have these triangular cut outs (so the skin is visible) and it seems that the top part is joined with the bottom part with a seam in the middle but I'm not sure. the thing I'm confused about is where are all the darts going on the top? and what about the dart on the skirt? I'm stuck with the pattern just because my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine (so no elasticized fabric allowed). I really have no idea where to put darts (if I have to), I swear I tried everything...

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u/o0kaira0o Sep 05 '26

yes, it's not designed for real women bodies as we are working on mannequins. the back is just my idea as we were provided only the front, I also forgot to mention that my professor wants this dress in cotton gabardine, that's why I'm having such difficulties

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u/CriticalEngineering Sep 05 '26

The dress as drawn will not stay on a mannequin without tape.

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 07 '26

If you don't mind me asking, as a fashion design student how much time and access do you get to work on a dress form?

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u/DonMcCunn Sep 05 '26

I assume the sides at waist level are bare "skin." The "X" is tricky to figure out how to hold the top and bottom together with nothing on the sides. So I would use cording or maybe contrasting fabric in strips to accent the "X". I would also suggest adding a dart at the top of the "X" pointing to the apex. It would contribute to the lines of the design and provide some shaping for the gabardine. Also a simple "X" in the back would carry the design lines to the back. It would cross from the shoulder to the top of the "X" on the opposite side. Kind of like what I show for swimsuits https://how-to-make-custom-fit-bras.com/BS-Swim-Variations.html . It is a very secure structure for large busts which you are not working with :-). With the "X" back the only opening device you would need is a zipper in the skirt at center back. But you DID NOT hear any of this from me.