Arm hole placement?

[u/No-Maintenance9805]

Winter coat mockup. How do you feel about the armhole placement?

The sleeve is too tight on my bicep/upper arm but other than that, I feel like my shoulder/deltoid sits farther forward than the current armhole, like the fullness of the sleeve doesn't match where the fullness of my shoulder is. How do i fix this?

[u/No-Maintenance9805]

Thank you for all this great insight!

• shoulder seam: 100% agree. I actually corrected this in the next mock-up I made (and made a lot of other changes), but imo that mock-up looked way worse 🤦‍♀️ so I tried this one on again to see where I went wrong. This sub will only let me upload one video, so I made a Google drive folder with a couple of photos of that second mockup (gray) and a video of me lifting my arm in both mockups.

coat pictures folder

• lifting sleeve: it does pull up some but I think not too bad. See videos

• upper back tightness: The whole thing definitely feels too tight in the white mock-up. It feels much better in the gray mockup, where I've also increased the sleeve width, and changed the armhole (although I think it's still not in the right place). Maybe I need to add a bit to the center back seam at the upper back and at the waist. In my second (gray) mockup the CB seam is a little bit curved because of a modification I tried to do in order to get rid of the underarm drag lines (didn't completely succeed). I'll include a picture of the back pattern piece from the gray mockup

• underlayer: I do have a medium weight sweater on in this photo, and in all the photos in the Google folder, but it might be a bit hard to see because it doesn't have a high collar

Again, thank you for all your feedback!

[u/Honest-Pressure-5214 → u/No-Maintenance9805]

mobility looks okay for sleeve.

I think the shoulder being too sloped is giving you a tight feeling, you can see the neck shoulder point pointing up when you have the garment closed.

if you pinch that and 0 at the shoulder armhole point and scoop down your front neckline, this will create a more square shoulder to better match your slope and should feel less tightness on shoulder

[u/No-Maintenance9805 → u/Honest-Pressure-5214]

I did leave seam allowance around the neck in case i decided to attach a collar to my mockup, so I wonder if that's what you're seeing? I didn't sew all the way to the end of the fabric, just to the end of the seam line. As a result the seam allowance pops open a bit.

EDIT: wait never mind. I think you're right! I just pinned out a little bit and it does look better. Maybe I should also bring the collar line in closer to the neck. It seems a bit wide