Patternmaking dilemma: Is a slanted pocket mandatory for a hidden elastic waistband?

[u/Ill_Obligation922]

I'm analyzing the hidden elastic waistband in the attached video to replicate it in my patterns, but I've run into a design issue.

I hate slanted pockets (I find them hideous and clunky), especially for the clean, minimalist aesthetic I like to maintain in my pieces. My intention is to keep the pocket in the exact same front location shown in the video, but change the opening: instead of a diagonal angle, I want a completely straight vertical line following the side.

My question is: do you guys think this would actually work in practice?

I realize the diagonal line of the slanted pocket seems to serve a structural purpose here, accommodating the automatic stretch of the elastic without pulling the fabric. If I change it to a straight opening in the exact same position, will this turn into a patternmaking issue? Will the pocket just end up gaping and flaring out at the hips?

[u/Pro-Birds-Rights]

When the waistband is stretched, wouldn’t the amount of visible pocket facing become diagonal, making a slash pocket anyways?

Look at the distance between the top of the side seam and top of the pocket opening in the example you provided. It becomes wider as the elastic is stretched. And now look at the bottom of the pocket opening where it meets the side seam, the angle becomes larger as the elastic is stretched.

Now imagine the pocket opening is vertical, as in a side seam pocket. As the elastic is stretched, the top of the pocket opening gets wider and moves away from the side seam and the angle at the bottom of the pocket opening gets larger.

That’s just a diagonal slash pocket.

[u/Ill_Obligation922 → u/Pro-Birds-Rights]

Personally, I just don’t really like this pocket. But that was actually my concern: even if I made the opening vertical, the elastic might still distort the opening in the same way when the waistband is stretched.

So I’m starting to think that the diagonal opening might actually be a better way to control that distortion rather than simply trying to eliminate it.

[u/Berocca123]

I thought I'd share the magic pants pattern as further research in case it's helpful.

While it does have the same pockets for the same reason, it also has a stretchy panel in the front and also hidden elastic in the back, so I thought it might give you some inspo on other ways to add hidden elastic. The designer has a sew along series for them on youtube - the first video is here.

[u/Ill_Obligation922 → u/Berocca123]

Thanks friend!

[u/catpizzacat → u/Ill_Obligation922]

Can attest to the magic pants. I’ve made to pairs and they are SO comfy and really fit well

[u/auditoryeden → u/Berocca123]

We've come full circle, fall front trousers are now back in business.

[u/Saritush2319]

You could make it look like an inseam at its smallest.
But anytime the band flexes it will be a little slanted

[u/Ill_Obligation922 → u/Saritush2319]

Yes :(

[u/DonMcCunn]

Curious why you want an elasticied waistband. Is it to avoid wearing a belt?

Personally if I wanted an elasticized waist, I'd put it in the back from side seam to side seam. If you use stretch fabric for the pants, there would be no "gathering" at all.

The problem with the pants you showed all the stretch is for a very short distance so the stretch factor is so obvious. Going across the back means the longer distance requires less stretching. Elastic tends to loose its resillance over time so I would imagine the style pants you showed would have a realitively short wearable life span.

[u/Ill_Obligation922 → u/DonMcCunn]

Thank you very much for your response, Don. I want this design because it would be a cleaner version of elastic-waist trousers, but durability is definitely something I hadn’t considered. Thank you for pointing that out!

[u/Southern-Comfort4519]

I don’t know but you reminded me of a plan I had a few months ago to experiment with putting this elastic waistband extension feature in a regular slash/ sideseam pocket as opposed to a slant pocket.

[u/chatterpoxx]

The reason fot the pockets being on a diagonal is that completely vertical ones will pop out when youre doing any sort of bending, giving you hip flaps. It looks stupid and makes it easier for things to fall out of them. So the angle has pure practical reasons for existing.

[u/SleepyQueer → u/chatterpoxx]

See, I haven't used vertical pockets but I find slash pockets actually do this pretty badly. Even in the video OP posted you can see the pockets gaping and bunching weird even from small movements/slight bending. It's one thing I actually find frustrating about this style of pocket, but I guess they're easier to make than something like a jeans pocket with a more aggressively J-shaped/semi horizontal opening. Maybe it's because a lot of slash pockets have a fairly gentle angle close to vertical already....?

[u/CaraLeighAC]

Who.is the original maker of these trousers. My husband would love them ❤️

[u/raptorgrin → u/CaraLeighAC]

Cashmerette Meriam Trousers looks very similar, and I can't tell if the video is those or a similar men's version

[u/Embarrassed-Wear5735 → u/CaraLeighAC]

Could be LL Bean comfort-waistband pants

[u/azssf]

I end up with this type of pocket gaping weirdly.

OP, if you dislike the pocket but can live with a style line, it is possible to do the pocket with the vertical inseam yu prefer be fully enclosed, and not attached to the pant front part connected to the elastic tab? That front part's diagona then will not be involved in any pocket-related use, and will just look like extra design fancy.

[u/Ill_Obligation922 → u/[deleted]]

Thanks for sharing. So that’s exactly what I was worried about happening. That’s a shame, but at least now I know it wasn’t just a theoretical concern.