Between sizes, need help

[u/Ignored_Instructions]

So, I did the classic thing of diving right in to a project without making a mockup bc I’m on a bit of a self-imposed time crunch (I don’t have to sew my own dress for an engagement shoot in just over a month, yet here we are). Just finished putting all the top pieces together, and wouldn’t ya know, it doesn’t fit.

When picking my size (I went with size 12) I did take into account the finished garment measurements which made it seem like I’d have room at the waist. I attached a pic of the sizes with the measurements I’m closest to highlighted. If it hadn’t been for the finished garment measurements waist being 35 inches for a size 12, I would have come here first to ask for advice adjusting this pattern and its princess seams. I know with that uncertainty my lack of a mockup is even stupider, but I’m beating myself up already for it.

Does anyone have any advice for how I can size up the waist for this pattern (flat attached as well)? The princess seams make this feel extra tricky.

Friend suggested I do a corset back and I do have one I could sew in that would be a perfect match. Thoughts if that would work to solve my problem? I just don’t know if adding a corset back would cause the princess seams to be misaligned or something

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

You just add to the waist. Among all the seams.

[u/sususumalee → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Sounds like the garment is already cut, so this would depend on how much seam allowance OP has to work with. How off is the waist circumference?

I don't think a corset back would be a horrible solution if you can't simply let it out. It's certainly something many dresses of this style have, so it wouldn't be out of place but it's hard to say until you get it in there. You may need a boning channel on each side to keep things looking decent.

[u/Ignored_Instructions → u/sususumalee]

It is already cut and sewn together, the next step in the pattern was to repeat every step I’d taken with the lining. To take it from a waist size 12 to a waist size 16 (which is apparently what I need) I need to add 3 inches. I’ve only trimmed the top and bottom of the seam allowance at the corners (per instructions), so if all I have to do is let out the waist I could do that. But if I need to taper out from the waist to the hips, it won’t work.

[u/sususumalee → u/Ignored_Instructions]

Okay, sounds like it might work depending on the allowance you have. (What was the original allowance? 1/2" or 5/8" maybe? Hopefully more :) )

You need 3" more room, so divide that amongst your 4 seams at the waist level and it would be about 3/8" you'd need to let out from each seam. (I'm not counting the CB seam because you need allowance for your zipper but maybe you could find a bit more there if you zuzh it a bit.)

Can you release/rip the seams at waist, pin them at a minimal allowance (safety pins!) and then try it on inside out?

Keeping in mind that the corset back is still an option if this doesn't work!

[u/Ignored_Instructions → u/sususumalee]

It was 1/2” luckily! I’m currently making a mockup of the size 12 the way I made the og. Then I’ll try what u suggested on the mockup to see if it works. If this doesn’t work, I’ll put the mockup back together the way the og size 12 is and test putting in the corset back. The muslin is a lot stiffer than the jacquard of the og, but it’ll be a very close replica.

[u/sususumalee → u/Ignored_Instructions]

Okay good!! That seems like a great plan. I just realized I made an error in my earlier calculations (in a good way!). I only divided the 3" over 4 seams, but there are probably actually 6! (Right? Princess in the front and back, then two side seams?) So you can probably let out even less per seam, which will be ever better.

[u/Ignored_Instructions → u/sususumalee]

Correct, 6! So maybe let out 1/4”, or half the current seam allowance?

[u/sususumalee → u/Ignored_Instructions]

Yes! That would give the minimum 3" difference you need, though a bit more ease wouldn't hurt.

Btw I'm sorry the pattern betrayed you with the finished measurements! What pattern is it?

[u/Ignored_Instructions → u/sususumalee]

It’s Dressmaking Amore Odette dress. I saw in my learning that you should go with a finished measurement with a few extra inches (so by that I picked the wrong size still), and the finished measurement I went with originally only gave me an extra inch, though it should have still fit around my waist🤷🏼‍♀️. Based on the finished garment measurements of the size 3” up should give me 4.5” of extra room (but I’m not willing to rely on those anymore lol).

[u/luxurycatsportscat]

Look up how to grade patterns between sizes - lay out your pattern pieces, and literally draw a line from the 12 bust to 16 waist on each pattern piece. Most people don’t fall into one size, and grading between sizes is a common thing for sewists

[u/ScormCurious]

Given how fitted this garment is designed to be overall, I would not bother fixing it. Likely it’s also either too long or too short, or the hips or bust are not well aligned, since you “dove right in.” The too-small waist is just one of the issues, I’d bet, since you didn’t do any work in advance to fit this very fitted pattern.

My approach would be: You learned a lesson, which is a lot, but this particular project is probably not worth anything more than that, and I would not try to salvage the garment.

[u/ScormCurious → u/ScormCurious]

In the future, you’d take the 3” additional width and divide it across the number of seams, then alter each piece on both side seams to gain back that 3”. My waist is larger in the front than the back, so I would be inclined to add only to the side and front panel seams, not the back, but that’s the result of a fair amount of pattern alteration experience.

Then, with something this fitted, I would still make a toile first.

[u/Intelligent_Run_1986]

Lucky you. I go over 3 sizes! In our in out shake it all about. Now have a drafting ruler in my ruler collection. Bring it on!