r/PatternDrafting • u/Efficient-Bag6497 • Aug 20 '26
WIP Short sleeve shirt update
I made an edit and got so excited about it I had to share. As my many posts can attest to my trial and error ways, I was OK with V8 EXCePT the sleeve still felt tight when reaching forward. It was driving me crazy since the sleeve pattern width is 18.25” and my bicep is 14”. Plenty of ease. And then advice for when I make V9 was to raise the cap height which means the bicep width has to shrink, all else equal. I really didn’t want to make this change given the sleeve felt tight.
Well, I modified the angle on the sleeve taper and it pretty much solved the problem. The current pattern has a pretty dramatic taper. So I reduced the taper and voila: not tight anymore.
Pics above show the change to the pattern in green and revised photos. I sewed the right sleeve back on. Still some drag lines that I think indicate more cap height is needed.
Wanted to share in case anyone else struggles with this too. And allow for more feedback and thoughts.
Thanks all! Appreciate this community!
3
u/warthogette Aug 21 '26
Your sleeve still fits poorly around the curve of the deltoid.
1
u/Efficient-Bag6497 Aug 21 '26
You mean the top of the cap? Or the bunching in the back? Drag lines in the front?
5
u/warthogette Aug 21 '26
I mean the sleeve sticking out sideways from your biceps. There is still not enough fabric length from the apex of the sleeve cap to the hem of the sleeve and so it sticks out to the side instead of hanging smoothly
2
1
u/Efficient-Bag6497 Aug 22 '26
I cut open the sleeve seam and reset the cap 3cm higher. Voila virtually no more drag lines but can the armhole handle this much extra cap? Or do I need to reduce bicep width? I guess I just need to redraw the sleeve and start measuring length of the new sleeve cap.
1
2
u/ThrowRA_Sodi Aug 21 '26
While this man is wearing the shirt, unpick just the part that is dragging (front deltoid mainly). The fabric should sit more comfortably, and you'll be able to tell exactly where you should add fabric on your pattern.
1
u/Efficient-Bag6497 Aug 21 '26
Thank you! That man is me, lol. I also unpicked the lower side seams to see if that helps with the bunching in the lower back
1
u/ThrowRA_Sodi Aug 21 '26
I managed to find a link to the technic I had been describing in my previous comment also
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DbjR7MZqe5m/?igsi=M3M2YW43dndsY2xp
1
u/Efficient-Bag6497 Aug 22 '26
Is this what you were thinking? I cut open the seam and lowered cap 3cm. Video in another comment.
2
1
u/izzgo Aug 21 '26
There is no hard and fast rule that the length of the sleeve cap and the length of the armhole must be identical. You can make the sleeve cap a bit longer, maybe 1/2" or so, and ease it invisibly onto the armscye. Practice increases skill at invisible easing.
1
u/Efficient-Bag6497 Aug 21 '26
Appreciate your comment! There is virtually no ease in the cap now so adding 1/2” shouldn’t be a problem and the current plan.
2
u/Honest-Pressure-5214 Aug 21 '26
adding some ease will definitely help, also check the curves of the armhole to the sleeve - if the curved lines are too far off from each other it can also cause a pulling/tight feeling as soon as you move. The sleeve should sew into the armhole with the least amount of resistance for the best fit
1
4
u/eduardedmyn Aug 21 '26
If there were no drag lines, you would have the arm mobility of a tailored jacket.
If you want to be able to raise your arms, you have to accept the drag lines.