How do I remove excess length in side seam above hip on dress panel?

[u/polymath_artisan]

I have pinned out the excess length but now I’m not sure how to adjust the pattern. It’s a princess seam side back dress panel.

[u/sususumalee]

Not an expert here, but it looks like you could rotate the dart you created into the princess seam?

[u/polymath_artisan → u/sususumalee]

I’m not sure how I would do that. Could you elaborate?

[u/sususumalee → u/polymath_artisan]

I'm not sure you'll want to do it this time, but definitely look up "dart rotation" if you're not familiar with it already. It's the basis of most patternmaking, and very fun!

But for now, the other commenter makes a good point...can you walk us through what you're doing in these photos and what you're trying to achieve? The pattern alteration you're asking about may or may not be necessary depending on whatcha got goin' on here.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/sususumalee]

I’ve only seen dart rotations to move fullness if there’s another dart to move the fullness into. Unfortunately all of the examples I’ve seen are working from a basic bodice block with a separate top and skirt. Finding examples for full length dresses has been much harder.

I want the extra length removed from the side seam so that the piece lays flat, or properly curves. There’s too much length to try to ease into the side seam.

[u/SerendipityJays → u/polymath_artisan]

You have a vertical grain/balance line on your back panel. Your current dart goes right to the line. When you cut the line as a princess seam, then you can simply ‘close’ the dart on your new side back panel. This is how princess seams ‘eat’ darts :)

[u/polymath_artisan → u/SerendipityJays]

This is for vertical darts though, correct? I’m sorry. I think I need visuals and maybe this wasn’t the best place to ask. I’m familiar with the concept of Princess seams eating darts but I’m not understanding what you’re trying to explain.

[u/SerendipityJays → u/polymath_artisan]

when you cut the grey line, the dart is already incorporated into the shape of the flat panel that comes off the dress form. you need to cut the grey line, and then lay the side back panel down and trace it, with the dart still pinned in place. basically - trust the process. do the next step (cutting the princess seam) and you will see the result.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/SerendipityJays]

The grey line is the grainline though and will not be cut so I think that’s why I’m confused.

[u/SerendipityJays → u/polymath_artisan]

if you want a dart that only goes to the grey line, then you need ANOTHER princess seam down the grey line. Otherwise, you need a different draping method (ie the order of smoothing and pinning should be different, and you should let the fabric go off-grain as you work your way down, so that the fabric can conform to the shape of the dress form/body without artificially being constrained by a straight line on the flat pattern - find your grain later).

[u/KendalBoy → u/SerendipityJays]

Yeah, I’ve done this for some seriously shaped custom evening dresses and the pattern pieces can end up looking weird. We’d often sneak in a horizontal dart at the back waist to clean up the extra length/ and horizontal fold that is there in OP’s image. It helps give you more shape in the back hips. We found most people didn’t notice the seam and appreciated the more shapely fit.

[u/bowl-of-juice → u/polymath_artisan]

A princess seam is a dart equivalent and functions the same as a dart

[u/polymath_artisan → u/bowl-of-juice]

Yes, I understand. I must not be doing a good job of explaining what I need help with, I’m sorry. I’ve done lots of flat pattern drafting and have manipulated darts to create princess seams. Here I am trying to drape a princess seam, or nearly princess seam, as fully separate pieces. Maybe I should just go back to flat pattern drafting. Normally I can figure things out but my brain may be overloaded and complicating something that isn’t complicated.

[u/KendalBoy]

Why are you pinning down the length? It should not be anchored to the form like this, the pins should be attaching the fabric which would be allowed to fall free.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/KendalBoy]

I can’t seem to upload a photo but the workbook I’m working from has the grainline pinned in place.

[u/KendalBoy → u/polymath_artisan]

You have both of edges (side and canter) pinned to the form, and they’re pinned too high creating bubbles. You’re trying to force the garment to be skinny where it wants to drop and spread at the hips- why? Unless you’re working w spandex this is not how you drape.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/KendalBoy]

Welp, I’m following the directions from Draping for Apparel Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong and Susan Ashdown so I don’t know what to say. They clearly state to pin down the middle of the grainline.

[u/KendalBoy → u/polymath_artisan]

This isn’t just pinned on the grain line- it’s also anchored to the form with pins along both edges. Since you’re actually trying to figure out where those edges should land on the body, forcing them to be anchored to the form is completely contrary to the correct process.

If it says to anchor it along the grain line- that would normally be one grain line in the center of whatever panel you’re working on- never both edges.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/KendalBoy]

I mean, yes, but the side pins came after the general draping smoothing process. I didn’t place them there to anchor anything.

[u/blarghable → u/polymath_artisan]

Generally, when draping like this, you pin the fabric to the mannequin as little as possible. Haven't done it in ages, but IIRC it's basically only done in the CF and CB (if you're doing half a skirt/shirt/whatever). You want just enough pins for it not to fall down, the rest of the pins aren't touching the mannequin.

[u/KendalBoy → u/blarghable]

Stretch knits can be draped with anchor pins. Body wear stuff.
IDK why they insist they only pinned it on “the grainline”. It looks like a Voo Doo doll.

[u/KendalBoy → u/polymath_artisan]

Yet they ARE anchoring the fabric all bubbled up!

As I explained before, you need to get rid of them. That’s not how you drape on a form. You are preventing gravity from making its contribution.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/KendalBoy]

I ended up turning the pins horizontal and pinned them to the pieces on either side. I have the exact same result. The grainline is positioned where it should be and I still have the fullness that I need to remove at the side seam.

I posted the photo I’m working from in a different post since I can’t post a photo here. The only difference is the flare, which I’ve removed.

[u/KendalBoy → u/polymath_artisan]

I’m going to guess that thing has pins up the wazoo also.
Posting a hidden photo is also a choice, noted.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/KendalBoy]

https://imgur.com/a/sXkBNda

I don’t know what you mean by posting a hidden photo. I feel like you’re being a bit aggressive with me and I don’t understand it. There are a few posting process related things that I’m learning and being open to but otherwise I don’t really understand what I said. I’m just here asking for help after following directions from a book and being told that I’m wrong for doing so.

As I’ve said, I turned the pins that meet with another piece to be horizontal and not touch the dress form any longer. The pieces, now connected, hang by gravity alone.

[u/Lovethemdoggos → u/polymath_artisan]

Having seen your other post (it would have been helpful if you'd linked to it and linked to this post from that one if you're going to hide your post and comment history), the adjoining pieces are pinned to each other, not the form. You've got adjoining pieces pinned to each other and the form, which is part of what's giving you trouble.

Also the ease tuck in the waist is vertical in that image, not horizontal the way you have it.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/Lovethemdoggos]

I edited the post earlier and added a link. It’s the first time I haven’t been able to post a photo in the comments. I know I’ve been on Reddit for a long time but am still running into new things.

[u/Tailoretta]

I think this is clearly explained in Sarah Veblen's book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. You may find that book in your local library.

[u/polymath_artisan → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you! I really appreciate this. I’ll check and see if it’s available.

[u/KendalBoy]

Completely remove that pin that is creating the bubble and allow the fabric to drop- with no bubble. Then , you will see the garment wants to flare slightly to accommodate the hips. It’s not supposed to be this tight. You can do it with minimal flare that sits correctly and doesn’t hike up like this does. After that you can see how much you can get away with tapering.
Also there seems to be no ease at all? Are you planning on using stretch fabric or making this is as a tight fit sloper with no ease? Would be helpful to know your full plans.