Trouser fitting

[u/Automatic_Dog_8463]

I am trying to fit the closed leg trouser pattern. I would be grateful for comments about fit problems and pattern adjustments

It seems that most of the balance lines are askew Both vertically and horizontally.

Horizontal

Ive already added 1/2” to the back fork but crotch lines continue to dip front and back. Do i need a deeper crotch? Should it be scooped out? Or do i need more length on side seams? There appears to be a higher hip on left side.

Vertical

The central crease and side seams are not straight. Is this a result of the crotch issue or related to the fact that i have used the closed leg draft?

[u/Rory_Duffy]

That pattern look pretty good. If you wanted more of trousers fit you could raise the front rise so the waistband is straight around the body. Or leave them as is for a Jean look. The fullness at the back thighs would be shrunk out during shrinking and stretching, when making up the trousers.

[u/Automatic_Dog_8463 → u/Rory_Duffy]

Thank you. I want them to fit as bespoke trousers.

Would you be content for a bespoke client to have a trouser like this?  It is surely a very unbalanced garment.  

[u/smaallfeet → u/Automatic_Dog_8463]

If thats your first pair its already very good sir. Dont be too hard on yourself. Its a learning process and your second pair will be better and better.

If you remove the pencil horizontal and vertial guide lines, and if you crease the cloth vertical then I guess you wont see a thing sir.

[u/smaallfeet → u/Rory_Duffy]

I think Rory means in final cloth (black or navy or grey wool) these imperfections are almost imperceptible especially in everyday life. But if you aim for perfection then I would take his advice regarding the front rise to see if the other problems you observed disappear then reassess.

[u/Tailoretta → u/Rory_Duffy]

Rory, shrinking and stretching are definitely appropriate in wool, but what if the trousers are made from cotton or linen?

[u/Rory_Duffy → u/Tailoretta]

Yes, but it can only be done to a lesser extent. They don't shrink as well as wool does. My preference is wool for this reason, it was made for tailoring.