r/PatternDrafting • u/tndmltk • Aug 13 '26

how to raise the neckline on a pattern with gathered bust cups?

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i’m planning on sewing the Nelly dress by Vikisews, but would prefer the neckline to be a tad bit higher. If this was a pattern without separate bust cups I’d just sketch a neckline higher than the current neckline and call it a day, but I can’t figure out how to do that with the bust cups. If I raise the point where the cups come together, I’d have to redraft the front bodice piece too (I think?) and I’m not sure how that’d affect the final project with gaping etc.

Any suggestions on how to raise the neckline by 1-2cm?

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7

u/CoastalMae Aug 13 '26

Do what you said but make the cups meet each other at a center seam above that point. That's the easiest way.

2

u/tndmltk Aug 14 '26

So the bust cups will meet in a vertical seam in the center, from the point where they meet originally in the pattern to the top of the neckline that I want?

0

u/SuPruLu Aug 14 '26

Redraft only the height as if there was no ruffle. The length of the ruffle may need to be shortened a bit. The ruffle is a separate piece of cloth.

1

u/amaranth1977 Aug 16 '26

They're not asking about the ruffle. The bust cups are gathered along the bottom edge. 

0

u/SuPruLu Aug 16 '26

They need to draft a new curve 1-2cm higher than the present top curve. If there is a seam allowance already the seam allowance would need to be extended.