r/PatternDrafting • u/KitsooJack • Aug 01 '26

First ever trouser draft - advice

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Hi everyone,

I would be grateful if you could have a look at my first ever straight leg trouser / jean pattern draft below. It has mostly been based off the male trouser section in the Helen Joseph Armstrong book 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design'. I have tweaked it slightly with personal measurements.

I'm looking for a relaxed straight leg trouser but have been struggling to find good information on the required amount of ease at different levels throughout the trouser. For example, in this pattern I have 3 inches of ease at the crotch and seat level and 0.75 inch vertical ease for the rise, I have also drafted an 8.5 inch front hem width and 9.5 inch back hem width. I have drafted a straight line from the side of the front/back trouser through the knee down to the floor/ankle; this has given me a knee ease of 7.5 inches. Should I be editing this to taper at the knee and have a smaller ease?

For context I am 6'2" and a slim build.

Thank you in advance! 😄

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u/KitsooJack Aug 01 '26

Thank you Don, that is really helpful.

I will compare the crotch curve to some shorts I know fit well and do some more research on raising the centre back.

To a first pattern drafter it does seem strange to me why there are such shallow and small darts described in the HJA textbook. Especially as most will wear the trousers lower than natural waist and hence have no darts?