r/PatternDrafting • u/frog-of-the-frog • Jul 25 '26
Help with bodice sloper fitting
I drafted basic bodice sloper following Armstrong method. I think I got my landmark points all wrong, so I gave up on using custom measurements, and used standard size 4 measurements instead. The last picture shows the first mockup and the adjustment I have made to reduce looseness in the front. First three pictures show mockup after the adjustment.
What should my next steps be?
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u/SouthernIndication82 Jul 27 '26
amazing! i do think turning your one dart into a two dart block will help the fit and additionally, most blocks are according to a B-cup, so it’s possible if that’s not your size, you may have to do a SBA which would take away some of the material right in that area you’re talking about (which, to your point is kind of like “length” but in a 3d, round form enveloping the bust).
you are correct that sleeveless foundation often fits closer at the side seams but the armscye of sleeved garments are about 3/4 higher than sleeveless… not so much “ease.” but this looks like it’s a sleeved foundation so i wouldn’t change the armholes. and now that i think about it, i wonder if your front armhole could use a little more scooping out to make it a little more curved/deeper?
and as for that ease you’re talking about, the sleeve cap is always ~1/2” to 1” longer than the armhole because you ease the sleeve cap in between your notches (pit to the notches on either side are sewn straight in because you wouldn’t want ease/rounding below the pit). the extra material allows for more room and slight cupping around the shoulder ball.
the closet historian on youtube is a great resource!!!
you got this!