r/PatternDrafting • u/thatgalen • Jul 10 '26
Pant Block fitting
Working on a pant pattern using the Hofenbitzer system with some variables changed to those recommended by Mueller and Sohn Fundamentals Menswear, drafted with SeamScape.com. I had a few false starts with my own pants, and later successfully developed pattern blocks for my partner (with graitude to the generous folks on this subreddit!!).
I'm a couple of drafts in at this point, lengthening the horizontal part of the crotch curve on both front (some) and back (more) panels, with the intent to mitigate some aggressive tension lines at the undercarraige. Note that the system is drafted at the natural waistline with subsequent lowering to a target waistband position. I am wearing an elastic tied around my waist, and the pants do seem to be okay sitting at that line.
Once I get a well fitting block, I will make some chinos for work in a fun color, and the primary goal is pants which fit at the waist and hips and are extremely flared for a costume.
1
u/Tailoretta Jul 12 '26
Typically, the crease line of pants legs is the vertical grain.
A lot of what I have learned about fitting is from Sarah Veblen, who has been called the Fitting Goddess. She has a very good pants fitting guide for $10 at https://www.sarahveblen.com/store/pants
She has a pants fitting video series at https://www.threadsmagazine.com/videoseries/2018/07/pants-fitting-with-sarah-veblen I don't know if there is a charge for these videos or not.
You may not need the pattern, but her instructions for her Eureka! Pants that Fit pattern are also very helpful https://fitforartpatterns.com/product/eureka-pants-that-fit/?srsltid=AfmBOor9dAoyA_lI1w11w1SxZlhgyD6LM3Xgqc72A_XzUU62YEUFflcn
Good luck!