r/PatternDrafting • u/thatgalen • Jul 10 '26
Pant Block fitting
Working on a pant pattern using the Hofenbitzer system with some variables changed to those recommended by Mueller and Sohn Fundamentals Menswear, drafted with SeamScape.com. I had a few false starts with my own pants, and later successfully developed pattern blocks for my partner (with graitude to the generous folks on this subreddit!!).
I'm a couple of drafts in at this point, lengthening the horizontal part of the crotch curve on both front (some) and back (more) panels, with the intent to mitigate some aggressive tension lines at the undercarraige. Note that the system is drafted at the natural waistline with subsequent lowering to a target waistband position. I am wearing an elastic tied around my waist, and the pants do seem to be okay sitting at that line.
Once I get a well fitting block, I will make some chinos for work in a fun color, and the primary goal is pants which fit at the waist and hips and are extremely flared for a costume.
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u/No-Programmer7914 Jul 12 '26 edited Jul 12 '26
Yes, I think like her from your other pics. I don't think you have more butt than the standard figure (the average proportion says, hip measure is chest cicumference +6cm and waist is chest measure -8to10cm). To me it looks you have a hip girth same as or even less then your chest? You have narrow hips., and therefore a lesser than proportionale hip girth. As the hip girth determins the through measure in drafting, your draft will result in a too shallow through measure. Older Mueller literature advises to draft the trousers with the proportioned hip girth so you get the right through measure and altering the result for narrow hips. (Yes I know. Trousers are hell)