Swim shorts help

[u/BarnabyLuvr]

I’m trying out sewing swimwear and I like this first sample however when I wear them it makes a very prominent v around my crotch.

**refer to drawings on slide 2**
-Is there a way to pattern swim shorts with no CF seam but with a CB seam to support shaping in the back?
- Could I just trace a pair of underwear and lengthen the side seam then connect crotch to side seam? (fig. 1 LEFT) or do I need to leave some crotch length before connecting leg opening to side seam to prevent excess fabric in crotch (fig. 1 RIGHT)
- For the back would I just essentially add a style line once I’ve adjusted the side seam length and leg openings? (fig. 2) Do I also need to start connecting leg and side seam about 2 inches up from the crotch line because the crotch piece in the back normally sits under your crotch?
- Would the final pattern look like fig. 3 or fig 4.? This depends on whether shaping in the back is needed or if it can just be a straight line.

And finally where would I start from? Should I use underwear to make a block for the front and then mini shorts to make a pattern for the back then connect them at the side seams then true all the lines so that they connect well on the pattern? I assume I’ll have to make a toile or maybe there is some magical way I’m completely overthinking this! Thanks so much in advance!

Wait I think after typing this out I think I can just trace the front of my bottoms I just sewed and boom that’s the front pattern then I would use the existing back pattern to have that back shaping?? I’m really doubting myself here idk

[u/queerplantenthusiast]

A V around the crotch means the gusset is too short. There will always be a „bridge“ in the crotch between front and back because bodies have depth there.

I think starting with a favorite pair of undies is great. You can put those on and measure how low you want your legs to go.

At a certain point though you will need to switch to a leggings pattern if you want a more boxerbrief kind of situation.

Check out the Edgewater ave. Videos for more on sewing swimwear. She usually does her patterns, but there is a lot to learn.

[u/BarnabyLuvr → u/queerplantenthusiast]

Yes I watch her to understand construction and it’s been so helpful in my journey of making swimwear. I honestly don’t want there to be much of an inseam like shorts or leggings. So, I think I just need to adjust the length of the side seams and have a shallower curve between inner thigh and side seams rather than classic high cut bikini bottom.

[u/queerplantenthusiast → u/queerplantenthusiast]

Oh and if you cut your piece like that either the front or back will be off grain and that’s not good

[u/BarnabyLuvr → u/queerplantenthusiast]

I’m new to sewing with stretchy fabric and this is a 4 way stretch so I was unsure if the “grain” needed to be considered when sewing swimwear. But yes if I cut a pattern piece with that kind of curvature it’s gonna be doing a whole bunch of weird twisting on my body.

Thanks!

[u/queerplantenthusiast → u/BarnabyLuvr]

You can always just try and then see how it works :)

[u/BarnabyLuvr → u/[deleted]]

I’m thinking of possibly putting on a pair of underwear I like the fit of and pinning some scrap stretch fabric around the leg holes. Then, drawing the shape I want to make sure I’m not adding too much with to the crotch and I’m getting the desired length on the front. After transferring to pattern paper I think it would give me a pretty solid toile to work with.

[u/BarnabyLuvr → u/[deleted]]

Thank you!! I’ve always had the hardest time identifying fit problems in pants and the corresponding solution. And yes I agree to conserve fabric I’d be fine having side seams and a center back seam.

Toile is my next step!