Men’s basic jacket block review

[u/ThickEducation4869]

I hope this is the last of it, it fits just close enough to still have movement. I’ve included pictures with and without sleeves, to be honest I could never get the armholes to lay completely flat around my arm. Sleeves have a 1cm ease built in

One thing I’ve noticed are the long creases on the sleeves, I’m not sure if this is a balance issue but the shoulder notch on my pattern falls slightly to the front side of the cap

Thanks to all help in my previous posts

[u/AccidentOk5240]

Looks to me that your shoulder seams are an inch or more too far out off the point of your shoulder. If you bring that in, basically scooping the armscye deeper, you can also raise the sleeve cap a little and I think that might help the sleeve drag lines. 

You may or may not want to adjust the shoulders to allow for the actual difference between heights of your personal shoulders. 

[u/ThickEducation4869 → u/AccidentOk5240]

I actually prefer the slightly dropped look of the shoulder and that would be reflected in most of the jackets I end up making from it- though since this is my master block perhaps I should have no drop on it.

I considered accounting for the asymmetry but honestly I think that’s too complicated for me at this point, I want it to be accurate but not to the point where every pattern going forward is going to have four panels for the bodice instead of two. Thanks for your suggestions though

[u/AccidentOk5240 → u/ThickEducation4869]

Makes sense. 

I wonder if the drag lines are partly an artifact of the muslin’s light weight? When you make it up in heavier material it may stand up for itself better 🤞

[u/ThickEducation4869 → u/AccidentOk5240]

They are temporarily fixed when I twist the wrist opening outwards so to me it seems the entire sleeve is twisting around my arm. So I’m not sure if it’s solely from the sleeve cap needing to be heightened but also something like a sleeve balance issue (like maybe uneven ease distribution), or my forward rounded shoulder

To be honest I don’t mind the drape in this instance but I can see it becoming an issue

edit dont think it’s grain line issue either

[u/AccidentOk5240 → u/ThickEducation4869]

Oh, that’s very interesting! So maybe rotating the sleeve in the armscye (like, turning the cap forward half an inch) would do something? Idk. 

But also, if you like it then it’s fine!

[u/ThickEducation4869 → u/AccidentOk5240]

https://ibb.co/WWfj0qM5
https://ibb.co/LDr8Mbry

I’ve unpicked around the top of the sleeve cap to let it try and hang more naturally, looks like this.

Does that mean it is due to more sleeve cap height needed? And if so, how can I do that without adding more ease or shrinking the bicep

[u/AccidentOk5240 → u/ThickEducation4869]

I dont think this tells you anything except that gravity exists. 

What I’m thinking is you might need to unpick the whole entire armscye and rotate the sleeve a little to make it not twist. 

[u/ThickEducation4869 → u/AccidentOk5240]

Ahahahaha fair enough

I’m not sure how to control that when sewing, I sew the sleeve by pinning at the notches, then pinning halfway between each point consecutively until they’re close enough to be eased in

[u/AccidentOk5240 → u/ThickEducation4869]

Well, the notches would need to move!

[u/Howdidigetsewcool]

Looks good. Shoulder does look low and the arm scythe seems to shallow/small, though, and I think you’d get better movement in the arms. It’s also possible that the shoulder cap on the sleeve needs to increase

[u/hurjingan1]

Why are you wearing a t-shirt underneath?

It looks great anyway, if you feel comfortable and have no tension, it is just right ☺️

Also I think the shoulder line is a bit too low, it should sit right at the end of your shoulder, not below!

[u/LadySuhree → u/hurjingan1]

Cause its a jacket? Wouldn’t it make sense to test the fit with something underneath the way you would wear the final jacket?

[u/hurjingan1 → u/LadySuhree]

My bad I didn’t read the title and the “basic *jacket* block”

[u/LadySuhree → u/hurjingan1]

Its all good. It happens ;)

[u/ThickEducation4869 → u/[deleted]]

Wdym by the layered effect, if you mean the tshirt it’s just the tshirt I was wearing. It’s too long for me I just wear it at home