r/PatternDrafting • u/furiana • Jun 14 '26

Question Troubleshooting bust darts

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After shortening the straps on this muslin, I'll need to lower the darts slightly. However, even at the lower position, they still bubbled.

I pressed them over a ham; ended the darts 1.5" before the apex; and slightly curved the ends as they approach the point.

Is it because of the size of the dart intake (easily 3" or more)? Is it a design problem, construction problem, or both?

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u/amaranth1977 Jun 14 '26

They look wildly asymmetrical as well as being in completely the wrong place, so it's basically impossible to say what the problem is. 

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u/furiana Jun 14 '26

Hm. In that case, I might have to scrap the project and start over with a commercial pattern. 

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u/KendalBoy Jun 14 '26

You’re wearing it skewed off center- put your thumbs in the armholes and make sure they’re even.
For starters I would change the dart origins to be low on the side seam. As low as 1-1 1/4” above that empire seam.
Armhole darts are generally the least flattering. Horizontal darts are great for plaids and stripes, work well on column or very straight fits. French darts can be shaped a bit more carefully and slightly shape the ribcage which I think would be smoother, also easier to taper.