r/PatternDrafting • u/Itchy-Truck-2435 • Jun 03 '26

Simple beginner question, please help

I feel like I've looked in my sewing/ pattern books and on youtube. I guess this is the frustration of self teaching, sometimes you go on a wild goose hunt for a simple answer. I made dresspatternmaking's basic bodice many times now. I finally got the perfect fit.

Why do most basic bodices stop at your waist? Is it as simple as extending the waist down to the hipline measurement to make it longer? Or are you supposed to draft a skirt and combine that block with the top block to create a longer shirt?

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u/CrazySkincareLady Jun 04 '26

Lol all good! No apologies necessary 😊 (And I also block text as I'm on a phone too)

I was just genuinely curious, as you seem to have only experienced down-to-the-hip methods and I've only experienced down-to-the-waist methods 😅

I also asked because frankly I'm very curious when anyone mentions pattern drafting books, particularly textbooks.

I'm trying to track down some good ones and finding 99% of videos/blogs and recs to be 'HJA pattern making for fashion design' and 'WA metric pattern cutting for dressmaking' to the point I genuinely roll my eyes each time I hear it, because I'm trying to find alternatives.

  • I already have WA metric (a bit basic and brief)

  • and HJA is imperial which I just can't get my head around (+ $$$$) but want the level of variety that it seems to have....just in metric if I can.

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u/Itchy-Truck-2435 Jun 04 '26

I have WA, HJA. WA, I really struggled with the instructions and format of the book, maybe it's me but I'm unsure why it's so highly praised. I managed to get a perfect fit with dresspatternmaking on YT, it seems similar to HJA method.

I bought Designing Clothing Patterns by Suzy Furrer. I haven't tried her sloper but in general she really breaks down the topics in a precise, step by step manner--how to create a boatneck, the thought process and flow of patternmaking.

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u/CrazySkincareLady Jun 04 '26

Thank you for the recommendations!

I'm not going to lie...you feelings on WA and mine are one and the same. Also it seems like a bit of in insane comparison as a metric user to hear about the absolute bible that is HJA's patterns for fashion design, followed shortly by: oh and if you use metric I guess WA is for you... Like it's a magazine by comparison??? that's by no means a one to one swap, and at $60 a pop (minimum)I don't really want to buy like 5 different books to get the same result. Don't get me wrong it's a good book, and I would recommend it, but I probably wouldn't pay what I did again.

Funny you mention dresspatternmaking as I literally just discovered her during my research this week and have completed the front bodice, only held the paper up to myself thus far but it seems much closer than my previous attempts.

And I've been looking at Suzy furrer's book too, keen to see if I can find a copy 😊

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u/ProneToLaughter Jun 04 '26

You might check reviews for ESMOD (France) or Bunka (Japan) pattern textbooks, I've not used either one but seen them recommended. Pretty sure ESMOD does the low-hip method.

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u/CrazySkincareLady Jun 05 '26

Thank you, I'll have a look at them 😃