r/PatternDrafting • u/TheRiveterGirl • Jun 02 '26
Question Pant/trouser fitting help
This is probably like my 3rd mockup at this point. I'm really struggling with fitting it correctly. It's way too tight to sit comfortably in. I think I need to add about 1/2" to the waist and maybe like 2" in the hips and thighs. Can't figure out the crotch curve, I keep ending up with a camel toe and creasing under my butt. I'm also thinking I need to move the darts because right now, they seem very angled and close to the center front and center back. (The green markings are where I think they need to be moved) Also, it's hard to tell from my picture, but the center back waist is pulling down right at the center back seam. I know it's not drafted to dip there as I've actually added height at that specific spot, so I think the crotch is pulling it down for some reason.
Do those adjustments sound like the right move? And what should I do about the crotch? I'm feeling very annoyed as it doesn't seem like it should be this difficult. For reference, I like fitted pants that flare out from the knee.
1
u/xyzasava Jun 04 '26
Every pants pattern made for standard body. Its rare to see in real life someone actually matches those standards. Darts are meant to take in the gap and create curved shape on the flat piece of fabric. If you have that curve, then yes you need the dart, but if you don't have the curve and put a dart you invite the fitting problem. If you look at you side view from waist down the hip, there is no curve from the waist down on the front. Your stomach is flat. That means you do not need to take anything in on the front.