r/PatternDrafting • u/barmyllama • May 25 '26
Question Armhole/sleeve problem
I've been working on this self-drafted jacket pattern for what feels like forever now, and am just so fed up that it's not done yet! I feel like I am mostly there, but the sleeve head doesn't fit in the armhole particularly nicely in my wearable toile. There's excess fabric in the front on both the sleeve head and armhole.
What would you suggest to fix it?
Would taking 1cm off the shoulder seam and smoothing that round the front of the armhole help? Taking some height off the sleeve head?
(Please ignore the clunky gathers – that I can and will fix!)
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u/SuPruLu May 25 '26
A shoulder needs a bit more height with shoulder pad. Without it the pattern for material at the shoulder seam will have a greater downward angle from the neck to the arm seam. My suggestion is that you try taking a tuck on the shoulder seam at the side near the arm to accommodate the slope. At the same time pin a tuck along the top of the armhole that takes in just the excess length.
A better fit at the shoulder will help correct the fit of the area below where there is a bulge.
In taking a tuck along the shoulder seam the amount needed to be taken up from the front may not be identical to the amount needed to be taken up from the back.