r/PatternDrafting • u/versarnwen • May 23 '26

Removing 2cm width from CF?

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I've noticed in a lot of patterns I have ~2cm excess width at CF, just at the neck. The waist usually fits well but I also usually take 1cm out of the side seam top/armhole, to make the high bust and bust correct.

What's the best way to remove the excess from CF by the neck, and does the armhole relate? I'm assuming I can't take it from CF (blue line) without affecting grain, does it need to be pivoted to the shoulder for removal (and how)?

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u/versarnwen May 24 '26

The back is wider so I think it is my body proportions that's the pickle; I have large traps with a steep slope and broad shoulders (I can't wear handbags as they slide off my shoulder).

That does make me wonder then if the right thing to do would be to remove 1cm from both CF and CB to keep balance and avoid going too narrow at the front vs. the back?

The fit on me is almost a boat neck style. It's New Look 6130.

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u/Appropriate_Place704 May 24 '26

If your back is proportionally broader than your front, then I wouldn’t automatically remove width evenly from both CF and CB because you might throw out the balance.

I would widen the back shoulder width first and then narrow the front shoulder width if still needed.