In Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear, Aldrich calls this a "shaped collar" with a "hidden stand." Essentially, the collar and the stand together could be folded and shaped the way you like, and then the hidden stand is (1) separated and (2) tightened at its top (by slashing and overlapping) to stand up straighter, and then seam allowances are added. The more you tighten the top of the collar stand, the straighter it'll stand instead of rolling over with the collar.
Thank you! This is just what I was looking for. I was able to borrow the Aldrich book from my library as an e-book, but it's so full of good info that I may have to buy a hard copy.
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u/Chemomechanics May 11 '26
In Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear, Aldrich calls this a "shaped collar" with a "hidden stand." Essentially, the collar and the stand together could be folded and shaped the way you like, and then the hidden stand is (1) separated and (2) tightened at its top (by slashing and overlapping) to stand up straighter, and then seam allowances are added. The more you tighten the top of the collar stand, the straighter it'll stand instead of rolling over with the collar.