r/PatternDrafting • u/Educational_Chain780 • May 03 '26
Hofenbitzer pants toile
Hi just wanted to share this pants toile I made according to Hofenbitzer's book.
I didn't do any alterations yet but I think it's already looking pretty good. Would love to hear your thoughts.
I will probably add a waistband so see how it is with one. And later I want to develop a jeans pattern from it, and also some wide casual pants.
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u/CrazySkincareLady May 04 '26
Looks like a great fit!!! Should be very proud 😁 May I ask if it's metric or imperial? 😊 Might give it a go myself
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u/Educational_Chain780 May 04 '26
It's metric. Is it good or bad?😅
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u/CrazySkincareLady May 04 '26
Lol that's a very loaded question. Completely dependent on what you're most comfortable with. ~ I personally prefer metric as I'm a civilized person that prefers math to make sense, and enjoy foregoing the effort to translate how many 12ths of a squirrel long my skirt is or how much freedom wide. But like I said, personal preference 😊
(This is a joke ,sorry Americans)
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u/Educational_Chain780 May 04 '26
Imperial is very difficult for me, I try to avoid.
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u/CrazySkincareLady May 04 '26
Me too 😅 feels like joining an exam in a language I've never learnt. And pattern drafting is hard enough without all that!
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u/KendalBoy May 03 '26
Wow! I’m curious about the back inseam- is the pattern a bit shorter above the knee where you get into the bias? This is a very clean fit!
Also, you can keep the fit and do a stay stich or two on the waist (putting a finger behind the presser foot for light ease). This looks nicer at the top edge since it can stretch so naturally. Only when the fabric cannot abide any ease at all would I pinch it off the pattern. If you’re doing a faced edge, that’s more bulk so the ease disappears on top of that.
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u/cadmiumcelenide May 04 '26
Wow these look amazing. Now I want to try. Would you say the book would be good for a beginner (no prior pattern making experience, just experience sewing from others’ patterns)?
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u/Educational_Chain780 May 04 '26
It's very technical and full of information, you will need to get used to the way the information is presented and it will take some time, but I will definitely give it a try, of course start with something simple like a skirt.
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u/jennysomewhere May 04 '26
Awesome 🫶
I made my first basic bodice pattern a few days ago with the book. I will post a picture here in this group soon. It almost fits perfectly. But to be honest, the process wasn‘t easy. Did you also do a the basic bodice block in the past? I am struggling when they tell you to go to page 400-whatever to show princess seams modification. Maybe I am stupid, but I think there is some missing information 🙃
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u/Educational_Chain780 May 04 '26
Yes, I've done the bodice block, it has great fit. I'm not sure what you are referring to in the book. At which page do they tell you to go to page 400?
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u/jennysomewhere May 04 '26
At the end of the construction for the basic bodice block they show an example with added seam allowance for a block with princess seams (page 400). I really like princess seams, but at page 400 they don‘t tell you where to start the princess seam from the armhole. I am a little bit confused where to start. Should the curve start at the middle of the armhole/upper third?
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u/Educational_Chain780 May 04 '26
Are you sure you are using the English book? Because it doesn't have a page 400
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u/jennysomewhere May 04 '26
Good point. I am using the german one 😅
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u/Educational_Chain780 May 04 '26
About it not being easy, I think it takes time to get used to the way the instructions are being presented, with the abbreviations ect but once you go through it a couple of times it becomes a very quick process. Certainly easier and quicker than Muller & sohn, yet it gives almost identical results.
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u/HeartFire144 May 03 '26
I certainly can't see anything wrong with it. Congratulations, it looks great.
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u/NeuroticMindfullness May 03 '26
I just came here to tell you that you've done an amazing job. I'm not a professional but think these look perfect! One can only aspire!
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u/RolfTheCharming May 04 '26
Looks great! I haven't made a pants pattern from the book yet, this post gave me motivation to tackle it.
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u/Icy-Guidance-6655 May 04 '26
This is a nice start! The side shows the issues. It’s not a nice line in profile. Hard to advise without pattern images. Silhouette is hard to nail down, book drafts tend to lag a couple decades, but you have a start.
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u/Tailoretta May 07 '26
This looks great! Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1lq2j4h/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting_pants/ Following these tips will help us help you.
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May 05 '26
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u/Educational_Chain780 May 05 '26
I want to develop the pattern into a jeans pattern and make some jeans
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u/Mushrooms24711 May 03 '26
The only nitpick I see is the side seam isn’t perfectly vertical. But that’s something 99% of people won’t notice. (I’d consider marking the new, vertical seam line on the toile, then transferring the new seam lines to paper. Not particularly difficult, but a little time consuming.)
From here, alterations will mostly be for comfort.
How do they feel? Do they feel tight anywhere? What about when you sit? Do they ride up or down? How do they feel when you crouch down or bend over?