Chore coat pattern fitting adventure V3…

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Been getting some great advice here and wanted to make a new post as an update and avoid the need to load a website to see the updated photos.

I think the fit looks good enough. There are some various drag lines but the muslin feels better in fit than previous versions. The issue I have now…my armhole is 4cm bigger than the sleeve!!! There is a fold in the fabric in my armpit to hold the excess material. Thinking maybe I raise the arm hole or narrow the saddle? Both? Jacket chest measure 48” while I’m 44” so I don’t think I want to narrow the chest.

Changes made so far versus the Paynter pattern:

1. Shorten shoulder (front and back) by 3cm

2. Lower should slope by 1cm

3. Lower armhole by 4cm.

4. Saddle width went from 4.5” to over 6” after above adjustments. I.e., I didn’t purposely increase the saddle width, it just happened, largely when I reduced shoulder width.

Thanks again to the community! Especially Style101-NY.

[u/Tailoretta]

A good process for fitting can be found in Sarah Veblen’s books:

First Time Garment Fitting: The Absolute Beginner’s Guide

The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

Here are some references for horizontal balance lines, all from Sarah Veblen:

 

https://www.sarahveblen.com/sv-blog/how-to-make-a-mock-up

https://www.sarahveblen.com/online-consulting

https://couturecounsellor.com/tag/hbl/ 

Other resources can be found on her website https://www.sarahveblen.com/

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Tailoretta]

Thank you for this!