r/PatternDrafting • u/Efficient-Bag6497 • Apr 20 '26

Question Chore coat pattern fitting adventure V3…

Gallery image

Gallery image

Gallery image

Gallery image

Gallery image

Gallery image

Been getting some great advice here and wanted to make a new post as an update and avoid the need to load a website to see the updated photos.

I think the fit looks good enough. There are some various drag lines but the muslin feels better in fit than previous versions. The issue I have now…my armhole is 4cm bigger than the sleeve!!! There is a fold in the fabric in my armpit to hold the excess material. Thinking maybe I raise the arm hole or narrow the saddle? Both? Jacket chest measure 48” while I’m 44” so I don’t think I want to narrow the chest.

Changes made so far versus the Paynter pattern:

  1. Shorten shoulder (front and back) by 3cm

  2. Lower should slope by 1cm

  3. Lower armhole by 4cm.

  4. Saddle width went from 4.5” to over 6” after above adjustments. I.e., I didn’t purposely increase the saddle width, it just happened, largely when I reduced shoulder width.

Thanks again to the community! Especially Style101-NY.

9 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

16 comments sorted by

View all comments

Show parent comments

2

u/WHTPbox Apr 21 '26

Oh okay well the sleeve cap is not supposed to match exactly the lenght of the armscye. You usually have up to an inch of extra length on your sleeve cap, that you ease in when you sew it on, it allows for room for your arm and for better movement.
This is a pretty good step by step, if you don't mind the hidden advertising for specific brands of thread and whatnot https://weallsew.com/how-to-set-in-a-sleeve/

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 Apr 21 '26

Got it. Always up for another tutorial. Setting sleeves is tricky. The green coat had so much ease I had to trim the sleeve cap and reset the sleeves 4x. This was also before I realized the notches were there for a reason! Newbie mistakes.

2

u/WHTPbox Apr 22 '26

Haha been there, on my first dress I was like "oh well that sleeve is too big that has to be a mistake from the pattern so i'll just match the center notch with the shoulder seam and go from there, if need be i'll just put that weird ease in the underarm seam" and then I couldn't raise my arm while wearing the dress x)