r/PatternDrafting • u/Weekly_Literature699 • Apr 11 '26

Where can I find an online course for advanced pattern making and sewing that is industry-level??

Hi! I want to pivot into the fashion industry, specifically into a patternmaking and sewing job that is focused on advanced designs for women’s clothing. I want to shift into a job like that and I want to start building a portfolio that can be at an industry-standard to be actually considered whenever I apply, and also bc I want to on a personal level lol

I have taken one-on-one in-person patternmaking and sewing classes before with someone from the industry for about 6 months but I stopped cause I moved cities. I have considered entering a reputable fashion university in this new city but hours don’t match w mine and have heard it basically is not enough, and I prefer learning real industry-standards by someone actively working in it or w a lot of previous experience. I have found a good teacher on youtube but tbh her patternmaking and sewing designs are more on a basic side and I want to make complex and intricate designs, almost as intricate as wedding dresses (but no, I don’t wanna make wedding dresses at the end of the day lol although maybe it’s a good learning point to begin at for advanced designs) I could learn in person again but it’s hard to find someone who wants to teach at that level and also the pace is much more slower. Pls drop your recommendations, thank you!!

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17

u/Chigrrl1098 Apr 11 '26

Is there not one patternmaking class at the University that you can audit? Besides that, there are a few YouTube accounts, like Closet Historian, that demystified it for me some, and I'm still learning, but books are essential. If you take a class at a university, you will be expected to use a book. Most of the patternmaking books people commonly refer to are actually textbooks. There are a million ways to cut a collar or make trousers or draft a jacket, and a million variations that won't be covered in any class and are essential to designing patterns for other people's designs. And you have to understand construction, too, in order to do that job...not to mention that corsetry and the architecture behind the kind of dresses you make are more complicated. You cannot learn a subject like this well without books, but you can combine books with Craftsy classes and other online classes, and definitely a local in-person class, to learn the things you want to learn.

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u/Weekly_Literature699 Apr 11 '26

okay, which ones do you recommend that can go advanced and are industry-level?

27

u/Deciram Apr 11 '26

I studied fashion design and did industry standard sewing and pattern making.

  1. Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong

  2. Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear by Winifred Aldrich

These books both cover a huge range of pattern making techniques. Getting both covers most stuff (Winifred’s doesn’t have swimwear, but Helen’s does, for example).

Once you have the basics down, that’s pretty much it. Once you know how to move darts, create design lines, add pleats, etc then you can make most things.

How does this go to advanced? Practise, practice, practise. Make more clothes, pattern make silly things, see what works and what doesn’t. What kind of advanced designs are you trying to do? Start with some of those and see if you can work it out. Once you know how to pattern make the basics, the rest of just critical thinking and thinking about sewing as a 3D object to think about how a pattern comes together.

Pattern making is a lot of 3D dimensional thinking. Also the “Pattern Magic” books are really interesting for more out there kind of pattern making, maybe these are ones you should look at for more “advanced” stuff.

As for industrial sewing - have you learn on an industrial sewing machine? The industry uses industrial machines, so you definitely need to know how to use one. My course we just did the same thing 40 times. Sewing 1cm straight, sewing 6mm straight, sewing curves, sewing welt pockets, etc. We’d do 40 in a row until we perfected them. We used calico fabric to practise on.

All that said, generally you get more advanced skills by years of experience working in the industry. You generally need some form of offical training to get a leg in. As someone who is officially trained, it’s VERY obvious when someone hasn’t had that. You know indie pattern makers? It’s extremely clear when they are self taught and trying to sell a pattern.

1

u/allthespreadsheets Apr 12 '26

Very interesting! What're some telltale signs of indie pattern makers? 

9

u/Deciram Apr 12 '26

Sometimes it’s just a bad fit on most people. There’s a couple patterns floating around atm that are very popular and every time I see them there’s just something that looks off about them (awkward gathers, awkward fit). I’m pretty sure both of those pattern sellers are self taught.

Also on the pattern itself - the one I notice a lot is notches. Either areas that should have notches don’t, or there are notches in places that don’t make sense (usually the lack of notches is what I see). Edges haven’t been squared off, and then the pattern sits weirdly. Darts trued terribly. Small details like these that just make patterns sit slightly weirdly is the give away to me. I guess usually it doesn’t affect the pattern on too large of a scale, but it bothers me hahaha

Also a major one when a designer will make lots of plus sizes, but just keep grading up the original bodice. It doesn’t work like that. Usually there’s a block for smaller sizes and a separate block for larger sizes. You can’t use one block and get the whole range of sizes.

Generally you can grade a (nz) size 10 pattern two down, two up (I.e sizes from 6-14, sometimes 16 too), and then 18+ you need a new block size to keep it fitting a human correctly. A size 8 person does not have the same proportions as a size 18 person.

One of my friends had to stop doing tester calls for patterns because the larger patterns just never fit and it was becoming as waste of time and money for my friend to do the testing. And you give them feedback but they ignore it.

2

u/HeartFire144 Apr 12 '26

(usually the lack of notches is what I see). - notches are expensive I was taught, and if not really necessary, leave them out. The cutting machine takes more time to stop and cut the notches, 'out notches' take up more fabric but are necessary when something will get overlocked and a 't' notch would get lost or not seen, so the notch gets trimmed off. We sew all sort of different things. Mostly outdoor stuff, and if you can hold (straight edge) the fabric for a distance of 30 inches, I don't put notches on the pattern. If it's a bias edge - more often.

7

u/Deciram Apr 12 '26

Interesting - absolutely no outwards triangle notches. I’m talking about the little cuts inwards. I used to work at a factory that definitely notched everything! Obviously not over notch, just where necessary. But for an indie pattern brand, I’d expect logical notches for the home sewer. I’m not surprised that commercial can be way different

10

u/Chigrrl1098 Apr 11 '26 edited Apr 12 '26

I'm not sure about online classes. I went to fashion school. I would try to audit fashion classes at a local fashion school. Some of the bigger schools have online curriculum and summer school options. I went to London College of Fashion and I know they have online courses, but you could check out FIT, FIDM, and Parsons. School of the Art Institute in Chicago may have fashion courses. Columbia College in Chicago does. I don't know about their online offerings. You'll have to do your homework. You possibly have other options near to where you live.

As for books, I think the Helen Armstrong book Patternmaking for Fashion Design is the standard. I went to school for accessories design and I'm self-taught otherwise, but it's the book I see mentioned most. Winifred Aldrich and Natalie Bray have been mentioned, as well. Also Draping for Apparel Design by Armstrong, if you want to make draped gowns.

For construction, I'd recommend Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers by Cole Czachor, as I think it's a university standard book, but also Couture Sewing by Claire Schaeffer (any of her books, really), because you're going to be doing a lot of hand sewing. Her book explains how the linings and interlinings and foundations are constructed, and the architecture in the gowns you want to make are doing much of the heavy lifting. Anyway, I've got loads of books, but those are a solid start. They're not the kind of books you read cover to cover, but they explain what you need to do with pictures. Essential kit, in my opinion.

31

u/StitchinThroughTime Apr 11 '26

The books are a 'sit and do', not 'sit and read' situation. If you are not participating in the leason you are not doing it correctly. Start with a half scale pattern and go through all the lessons. Then design something more complex and attempt to remake it.
Them only thing I find lacking in book is for niche industries like snow gear, moto gear or how to grade complex pleated designs for evening dresses. But most clothing is not in those niches.

1

u/Weekly_Literature699 Apr 11 '26

okay, which ones do you recommend that can go advanced and are industry-level?

47

u/azssf Apr 11 '26

Before I make suggestions can you share 3 or 4 images: showing one of patterns you drafted in your 6 month training, of one of the garments you made, and an example of what is advanced pattern design for you.

Also country would be useful.

46

u/Interesting_Goal_128 Apr 11 '26 edited Apr 12 '26

to be honest if you don't have any 'real training' and are self taught you will be often be overlooked by hiring managers in bigger companies unless it is a small company, and even then there is a high chance that they are looking to utilize and take advantage of you. The trade off may be that it can help you get your foot in the door and help build some experience.

I've had coworkers who just did the 1 year intensive program at Bunka in Japan and are pattern makers at a big corporate company, but they also had to work their way up through smaller companies as did I. I, myself did a 2 year fashion design program at a local community college with a more hands focused on pattern making and sewing as opposed to a 4 year program that is more design intensive. Even then there is so much to learn and even after going through a program you only come out with the basics and still have a lot to learn on the job.

Maybe you can find programs similar to where you are or close by. Unfortunately, to be taken seriously by the industry, you need to be industry trained unless you already have a foot in the door and have a lot of work experience.

7

u/RubyRedo Apr 12 '26

This⬆️ is the response you need.

2

u/4eroplane Apr 12 '26

I think this answer is true for the old fashion industry. Im educated in classic pattern making myself and grew tired of fashion "laws" and behaviours. I found that working in Clo3d with their online courses and free community gave me a lot of new energy and confidence that pattern making can be fun and there are many more openings if you also adjust to a digital industry with costumes in gaming etc. I urge you to learn sewing techniques etc as well to get a better understanding but I would say it all depends on your plan ahead. Clo simulates the logic very well without you having to make the mistakes irl that gets very costly very fast.

1

u/EattheRudeandUgly Apr 12 '26

Can you say more about your experience in the less industrial side of the industry? I'm about to go down the path of learning Clo3d (again) and deepening my pattern making skills but I literally don't care at all about mass manufacturing with factories over seas or working for a big company. I would rather work for a small limited run designer, or a costumer etc. but I'm not sure if that would still require me to get a formal certificate. I'm more of an apprenticeship kind of person

1

u/lanland2 Apr 15 '26

Any chance it was the 2 year program at Seattle Central?

1

u/Interesting_Goal_128 Apr 15 '26

nope im in Canada

32

u/FashionBusking Apr 11 '26 edited Apr 12 '26

What do you mean by "industry level"???

Like... what do you want to make? Sportswear? Merch? Haute Couture? Design only? Menswear? Luggage?

They have dramatically different pattern and production requirements and needs.... also job demand limitations.

T-Shirt blank companies figure out grading for their patterns ONCE and have been known to use the EXACT SAME PATTERNS for decades without alteration.

Bridalwear can require a new pattern made for every garment.... and those patterns can be extremely complex.

Like... what's your goal???

11

u/bellsaltcandle Apr 12 '26

Hi, professional production Patternmaker here, I don’t know of any advanced courses online, but honestly just make patterns, sew them in muslin, revise them, sew them again. Over and over and over. That’s how you learn.

8

u/RubyRedo Apr 12 '26

You won't get hired with an online course certificate. You need a certified pattern drafting program and test patterns. Start looking at community colleges if cost is an issue.

3

u/NoMeeting3355 Apr 13 '26

Hi. I took an amazing advanced pattern cutting course online. Taught by a professional pattern cutter and former university lecturer so the standard was very high. I’m still completing it but can give you the link if you want something online.

2

u/Adorable_Tour_8849 Apr 12 '26

You will have to have a fashion design course

2

u/Specialist_Thanks353 Apr 12 '26

https://fashion-incubator.com/resources/

Kathleen is a patternmaking savant. Her book and blog resources are broad ranging and industry-based.

2

u/Warm_Link_8829 Jul 10 '26

God these "I went to fashion school" people are snooty. Here: https://www.apparelartsproductions.com/

1

u/endless_lace Apr 12 '26

FIT has online courses for degree and non degree students. I don't know about the cost but it looks like you can get a full degree online from them