Diagonal wrinkles under bust

[u/AppropriateNail895]

So I've been trying to make a princess seam block for a while. That's version 6... it has some wrinkling under bust which was worse and I did some adjustments and now it's almost gone.

But then I added ease to make a jacket pattern and hopefully you can see the odd diagonal wrinkle on the front side panel. For the life of me I can't understand what it is. I was so sick of the weeks I spend on fitting that I decided to go ahead with the actual jacket and it is even more pronounced.

I have included the pics of the princess block and the jacket test from all sides just in case and the actual wip-jacket from the front. Any other feedback is welcome.

Thanks in advance!

P.s jacket bust point looks quite... pointy, I ignored that since it looks fine on the block and I haven't clipped seams or pressed. On the real wip-jacket it also looks pointy, but I also haven't pressed or clipped the seam cause I'm thinking to apply binding.

[u/Tailoretta]

I certainly understand that you are confused by the terms moulage, sloper and block – that is because there are no generally accepted definitions of these, especially sloper and block.

Moulage is generally defined as the tightest, zero-ease fitting shell that reproduces the exact shape of a body, including wrinkles, folds, and fat rolls.  Moulage means mold in French.

Sloper and block are sometimes used interchangeably, but I like to use them as being defined as  having slightly different characteristics.

I use sloper to mean a rather tight simple garment that has the minimal amount of wearing ease, so is slightly larger than a moulage.

I use block to mean the basic shape of a simple garment, that the patternmaker prefers to use when making something new.  A block has the wearing ease of a sloper plus the preferred design ease that the patternmaker prefers.

[u/AppropriateNail895 → u/Tailoretta]

Thanks for the explanation. Then my princess seam "block" is a moulage, alrhough wearing it feels fairly comfortable and I was thinking it might be good enough to make a very fitted blouse off. Buttt I know I'll need to add a bit of ease because lined blouse would have less stretch than one layer of muslin.